Hospital grade is the worst, simply means that the outlet is resistant to moisture and chemicals used for disinfecting and cleaning hospital floors and walls. Most have anti corrosive coatings that are not great conductors.
Wall outlets
Hey everyone, don’t kill me I know it’s been talked about a bit. I’m am currently about to upgrade my wall outlet. Commercial vs Audio outlets. The general consensus is commercial hospital outlets would work but they can strip the coating off our nice power cables. I have talked a bit with @audphile1 on this matter. Furutech has my attention. I have considered upgrading my power cable to the Furutech DPS 4.1 cable and get a Furutech outlet with the same finish. A friend of mine is an electrician and has offered to install a new outlet behind my rack. He said I could pay with a case of beer. Haha. Sorry if I started a new 🔥🔥🔥. The forum is fun, there is far more knowledge here than we are going to find anywhere else IMO. Also I finally got my virtual system up for anyone to take a look. Thanks everyone
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- 87 posts total
@kota1 the bass traps just got here yesterday. I have considered pulling the speakers a little closer to the side walls to see how that sounds. I have not had a chance to do the chair yet. If you check out my system you can see my sons knees on the left side of the picture haha. I also have some GIK acoustic 6a alpha panels to put behind the couch, then I plan on pulling the couch out a little more. |
The bass traps look fantastic, I use floor to ceiling traps too, you can see in my virtual system. My MLP used to be near the back wall, I changed it to be in line with dolby specs and moved it forward toward the center of the room, WOW! Big difference. If you maintain a space of around 2-6 inches between the traps and your walls they work better because the back side can also absorb bass. You can compare both methods and see what works best for your room. For my room spacers worked better on the back wall, not so good on front and side walls. |
- 87 posts total