The dangerous world of Reel-to-Reel Tape


It feels like I re-entered the world of tape knowing full well of all the downsides, yet I  did it anyway.  I spent much of my youth glued to my dad's decks, making recordings.  As cassette and digital came of age, I always appreciated the sound of tape. 

Whether this adventure is worth it is a subjective exercise.  For folks who plop down $500-$1k on cables or those who swap gear often, tape is really not that expensive, relatively speaking.  Titles are limited though. 

The sound quality and experience is quite something.  Before jumping back into R2R, I had 4 versions of Muddy Waters' Folksinger.  Hearing Chad Kasem's firm's work on it in 15ips it's just something else.  Body, size, and presence are just different than very good vinyl and digital.  And this is with the stock reproduce board from a Revox PR99 MKIII. I can only imagine what's going to happen when I rebuild that card, put in a modern one, or run directly from the head out to a preamp. 

Maybe I'll see some of you in R2R Rehab, where I'll try to get sober from tape. 

128x128jbhiller

We all now the 'cone area' comparison (neglecting the effect of the throw to determine SPL) for woofers.

 

Does this also play into the midrange cones? 

My concern: bookshelf speaker plus subwoofer(s) to "FILL" (SPL) large room with sound in the low to mid range (above say 100 Hz when using 2 subs, above 60 Hz using just one sub)? Is that were larger, multi-driver speakers have an inherant advantage?

 

 

How to calculate cone area

Cone area = pi x (r x r)

pi = 3.14 r = radius of sub

One 8" = 50.27

One 10" = 78.54

One 12" = 113.1

One 15" = 176.71

One 18" = 254.47

Two 8" = 100.53

Two 10" = 157.08

Two 12" = 226.19

Two 15" = 353.43

Two 18" = 508.94

Three 8" = 150.8

Three 10" = 235.62

Three 12" = 339.29

Three 15" = 530.14

Three 18" = 763.41

Four 8" = 201.06

Four 10" = 314.16

Four 12" = 452.39

Four 15" = 706.86

Four 18" = 1017.87

Around the mid 2000’s, I noticed my Ampex tapes started to sound muddy and were leaving a lot of residue on the tape heads, pinch rollers, and transport mechanism so I had to stop using them (because they sounded like crap).

@oldschool1948 This is the shedding to which I was referring in my prior post.

Tapes that have this problem, if not too severe, can be baked in an oven at low temperature to chase out the moisture that is causing the shedding.

About 175 degrees works; you need at least 2 hours. Its better if you remove the tape from the reel (this have what is known as a 'pancake') so the moisture can leave easier. But I've baked tapes without doing that and its worked fine. We keep a toaster oven in the studio for this purpose.

I should also point out that tape heads and guides need to be periodically deguassed because they can pick up a residual magnetic field that will slowly erase the high frequencies on the tape. To do that you need a tape head demagnetizer.

@kraftwerkturbo  I have a mix-tape cassette I made of college radio tracks from 1983 (dubbed from my then-new records) and it stall plays quite well! It's a Memorex Type II with Dolby B.

On commercial open-reel I have a Tom Jones s/t album on Parrot, Wonderland Of Bert Kaempfert, J. Lennon's Plastic Ono Band on Apple and owned (but recently sold) Hendrix' Band Of Gypsies on Capitol, all original 7.5 ips tapes printed & sold around 1968-71, all still play great.

@atmasphere I considered trying to bake the tapes, but at that time in my life, I had neither the time or inclination to do so.  I do have a head demagnetizer. It came with a Teac reel-to-reel maintenance kit, which has just about everything one needs to clean and service the heads, pinch rollers, transport mechanism, splice tapes, and leaders,  etc.  I’ve had it since 1981.

Back in the 80’s and early 90’s when I used my R2R a lot, I’d demagnetize the heads and transport mechanism about once a month.  I did not know if that was enough or too much, but it worked for me.  I did keep the demagnetizer away from my tapes 😀.