You can convert RMS wattage ratings to current (amperage) easily enough but that isn't the entire story wrt the quality of the power supply, which is important in supplying short term peak power without distress. Making sure to have sufficient peak power for dynamic musical passages is probably why Ralph recommends exceeding the speaker's rated wattage. However, I don't always trust those "ratings", which is why the SPL calculator I posted can be useful to evaluate power needs for your specific speakers and room.
Good point on doubling power into lower impedance loads but those numbers get played with by manufacturers too. Take an amp rated at 200wpc @ 8 ohms and 400wpc @ 4ohms, does that amp really double into 4ohms, or is it actually a 250wpc amp that provides 400wpc into 4ohms? Does it really matter? Simply purchase an amp that is large/powerful enough to drive your speakers to the levels you want to listen on the music you like to play.
When I think about "quality watts" as discussed here, I am reminded of the Lamm 1.2 Reference amps that I owned. Those Class A hybrid amps were rated at only 110/220wpc into 8/4ohms, when set to their high impedance setting, and the same wattage rating into 4/2ohms when set to their low impedance setting. My speakers dip to just below 4ohms at certain frequencies and those amps definitely sounded better at the low impedance setting in my system. They were not powerful enough to convincingly drive my speakers to the SPLs I wanted to hear but, within the volume levels they provided, there seemed to be no loss of dynamics or tonal color. IOW, they sounded really good, but simply ran out of steam at a certain volume level. I have never heard another amp respond like that in an underpowered situation. Most I have heard begin to sound stressed and thin well before their limit.