TAS and Stereophile, as well as many of the online only review sites have reduced themselves to audiophile porn. Highlighting that which is only attainable by a wealthy few, leaving those of us for whom it is unattainable drooling
I can't speak for TAS, which I don't follow closely, but as for Stereophile, you might be overstating this just a bit.
In the last few years, Stereophile has reviewed the Apple AirPods Pro II, SVS' Prime Pro II speakers, the Naim Muso 2 wireless, the LSA VT-70 integrated amp, Topping's Pre90 preamp, several Schiit components (I recall the Aegir and the Freya +), the Cambridge Audio CXA81, and much more.
Are these "attainable only by a wealthy few"? Nah. Most products I just mentioned are a thousand dollars or less. The AirPods are $249!
The reviews of hyper-expensive audio products probably receive the most online buzz, but I don't think that's something Stereophile controls.