Sun Valley vs Sun Audio 300b


Any thoughts on how they sound?

 

Sun Audio is extremely simple circuit with no NF and Tamura.

Sun Valley is more complicated circuit w/GNF and Hashimoto.

 

I don’t mind building either, but hard to find anything out there comparing how they sound. Each has sales reps in US that want to push their own.

Sometimes simpler is better, other times stability is better.

thanks in advance!

 

 

clustrocasual

@clustrocasual I am also interested in your quest. Seems like one day I will have to build a 300B and have followed Skunkie and others on the topic. The thing about Vikto Kung is that it is not clear how you buy from him, at least from what I have read on DIYaudio. Please continue to relate your experiences on this thread.

just a FYI......i had two Don Garber Fi integrated 2a3 amps, one with Hashimoto and the other with Magnequest.....the difference in sound was substantial, Magnequest was much better, and more focused.

That was the second amp i had with Hashimoto, the other a Triode Labs integrated and again in that circuit they sounded lean and flat (maybe I mean more linear less passion) that the Fi.

Any new developments to report? Did any of the above participants (or others) try either the Sun Audio or Sun Valley 300B amp? 

Hey O, 

I just completed the Sunvalley 300b and had a great time doing it. Granted I did it twice since I misinterpreted a couple of basic instructions and my first attempt started to smoke after about 10 minutes of play. That said I'm not a pro, so chalk it up to rookie mistakes. I'd done probably six solid state FirstWatt amps prior to this, plus one SPUD tube amp, but this one was a little more complicated. 

The instructions, especially the illustrations, are very good, but the brief text explanations are aren't always the clearest (translation issues). Suffice to say you should pay close attention to the schematic and the images, particularly the icons in the process steps. Example: the lack of a red dot means "insert the component leads but don't solder yet", while a red dot means "insert component leads and solder now". Also there's a little red arrow that means "even though there are multiple leads soldered to this one lug, don't let the leads touch each other". 

Anyway, after my initial failure I realized I'd rushed at some important points, so I decided to desolder the whole thing and start over. I kept the caps, ordered some higher quality resistors, and got better wire since the hookup wire supplied with the kit is pretty cheap and you don't get a lot of it (though I'm sure it works fine). The silicone-covered 22awg I bought is not only a little thicker, it's more elastic and holds shape/position better. Also as I'm sure you know it's nice to have an abundance of wire just in case!

One important piece of advice: if you go the Suvalley route, make sure to use the diode rectifier (parts included) and not the supplied tube, which can barely handle the voltage. 

In summary, I've been running the Sunvalley for a couple of weeks now and absolutely love it. My initial intention was to buy a Sun Audio from Devin T, maybe even go to New York and build it in one of his workshops, but I got tired of waiting for the next drop. The man is clearly in demand (good for him!). I've rolled some different 300b's in the Sunvalley, and currently have some Shuguang black treasures in there...simply luscious sounding. Also using a pair of RCA clear top 12AU7s and a Mullard 10M gold pin 12AT7. I'm happy as a clam, even though there's a lot of tube burn-in yet to go.

Overall I'd say that the project isn't as complicated as it's made out to be. Especially if you take your time and get fussy with it, it's a pleasure to build (even twice). Victor is also extremely helpful and friendly. I recommend the experience.