Source for Garrard 301 plinth (and other 301 questions)

just some advice after doing this with my 301.

one, do not skimp on a plinth. use one of the tested/trialed plinth designs on many 301 threads. this is critical to reduce rumble. 

second, you may need to disassemble your motor to lubricate its bearings as well.

third, do not touch the metal mechanical parts, gold color'ish plating, this is cadmium and poisonous, use gloves and consider having them striped.  

fourth, consider the counter sunk plinth design it reduces the need to raise tonearm as much, granted harder to clean. 

lastly, if you have excessive rumble it may also be the idler wheel is out of round from sitting so long. new ones are available, just make sure you get the correct one for your counties power supply ie 50hz or 60hz. 

From the Link, I am familiar with Dive Deep Dogs work.

I have discussed the materials he uses to make a structure and know he likes a compressed Plywood referred to as MU 25.

My suggestion for a very effective and affordable Plinth would be to go on to Lenco Heaven forum and find 'Anwesh' who supplies Permali Board.

The next option would be Polybentonite Resin, much can be learnt about this on Lenco Heaven or the SP10 Thread on DIY Audio, where good guidance is offered for producing a mould to make the form of the Plinth.

Garrard-SME have stole the DIYers' Pb' Resin method and use a version of it on their $60K 301 TT. 

https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/permali-panzerholz-help.274028/

https://www.garrardturntables.co.uk/301-advanced/

@dcindc plinths for idler wheel turntables require some thought put into their design if you are interested in wrestling the best performance out of your deck. Why? Because these decks (301/401, TD-124, various Lenco models) transmit energy differently than belt or direct drive turntables. I would divide the world of idler wheel plinths into heavy and lightweight. I've had good success with both but I suggest skipping the very heavy obsidian or rock plinths. It's possible to completely isolate the deck from the plinth but it's really hard and that outweighs the benefits IMO.

Chris Harban makes some great plinths - Woodsong Audio. The best plinth I ever had for a TD-124 was one I make from stacked and glued 1/2" marine plywood, carefully braced and damped in key locations. It was a fun weekend project but my wife didn't like the utilitarian look.

As @br3098 states above, this guy's work looks really good. Not sure on pricing but ...

... the $50 for a 30-minute consultation would be a bit of a red flag for me (e.g. "Need help deciding which turntable is best for you?"). Surely advice leading to a potential purchase does not need to be charged. If the conversation is about DIY there are other means of dealing with that.

Thanks for all the great replies. I wish I had the tools to make a plinth myself, but since I don't I think I'll just save up to buy one. I'm not seeing anything much cheaper than $1,000, so it might take a while. Is anyone aware of a source for nice plinths that are less expensive than that?

Just for your amusement (since I assume people who read these forums find this as interesting as I do), the table is sitting in a walnut console, mounted on a 1-inch thick walnut board. It has a Rek-O-Kut S120 tonearm, and I mounted a Shure SC35C that I had available. Even in that state, it sounds fantastic. 

All I've done to it at this point is add a drop of oil to the idler wheel bearing, a few drops of oil for the top of the motor and the spindle bearing, and oil the felt washer. 

I'm planning to mount an SME 3009 II with Shure V15III (SAS stylus) as soon as I get a plinth (or maybe in the current board for now). That's about what my budget allows at this point.

Short of sending it off for a full refresh, any other recommendations for what I should do to get the best out of it for now? 

Thanks again for all your help!