Recommendations for 20 amp electrical outlets

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@jea48 said:

Shunyata’s outlet is a Hubbell 5362.

It’s still interesting that Galen Carol would recommend the Hubbell outlet if he is selling his version of it. Just a rhetorical statement.

Galvanized steel supporting back strap... Not good for feeding audio equipment. Can add grain and brightness to the sound depending on the equipment used. YMMV

The Maestro has more positive reviews than negative, so they must have put some magic into the outlet! If the $3 Lowes outlets are the same as the Maestro and they sound like The Maestro, then I’m buying them for the entire house!😆

I’m good for now as I plan to let the system settle in the new room upon completion, then I’ll have a baseline to assess a new outlet. I bought several PS Audio outlets for now. My system is sounding top notch with the PS Audio outlets that I’ve had for several years, so anything better will be icing on the cake!

My Rep. at The Cable Company stated that the Furutech GTX-D (NCF) R was the best sounding outlet that he has owned and he liked the Audioquest NRG Edison outlet, but felt it was way too difficult to remove power cables from it due to the tight grip. Lastly, he said the Cardas outlet was really good and just below the Furutech. I’m hearing and reading all kinds of opinions on most of the same outlets mentioned in this forum, so I will narrow it down and select one when I’m ready to pull the trigger on an outlet.

Thanks so much guys!👍

@jea48 

Keep in mind, “separate” ground at the panel, even a separate panel not bonded to the main breaker box STILL goes into the SAME ground (earth) as the other ground rod(s).

Please explain in more detail what you mean.

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entire book(let)s have been written about the subject of grounding. Most of what I know is from setting up ham radio equipment at home, installing towers here and it’s a topic dweebs, geeks and “auty”/“aspy” folk will argue to death - or blocking - on the internet.

Basically:

I’ve read SO many posts here and on other audio forums about people spending beaucoup dollars installing a “dedicated”, “isolated” 20A power source for their audio equipment AND mentioning “with a separate ground.”

Typically, there is only ONE service entrance for power per home. ONE breaker panel. Ground (the bare copper wire) and Neutral (white wire in the US) are “bonded” at the breaker panel, meaning, connected. Ground goes to a ground ROD outside, outside the footer, usually a copper-clad steel rod (some use copper pipe which is fun to install)

Now someone wants to install a SEPARATE box, a SUBPANEL which is tapped off the main breaker panel, this box doesn’t have a separate grounding rod (I’ve read where others have done this) AND neutral (the “return” line for the hot feed) is STILL going to the ground rod(s) by the house (NEC code, IIRC, now requires two, connected to each other. I used Erico Cadweld one-shot thermite welding to fuse #4 copper wire to each ground rod for my ham radio tower), bottom line being, ALL ground goes into THE GROUND, the same ground (earth) beside the house. One service panel, one ground.

Any other appliance in the house is going to be on the same circuit no matter how “isolated” it’s made as hot and neutral go to the “appliance” (including stereo gear) and neutral is BONDED to GROUND at the panel - again - the ground lead going to the ground ROD.

It’s why so many people are using power conditioners on their equipment.

Hope this helps.  And puh-lease, “experts,” geeks, dweebs, techies, “I’ve been an electrician for 40 years” guys, save it for another forum.

Good point “you’re hearing many opinions on the same outlets”  My guess is then most of it doesn’t make a difference and it’s a wee bit of a scam…you think ?