I liked the PS AUDIO BK250 as well. Like it so much I bought another and now vertically biamp. It imparts of bit of tube sound, but has a solid state output stage. I find it to be a nice compromise. I have the F208s but they are not hooked up to the BHK 250. Nice speakers though. I should try it sometime with the BHK 250. I was using a benchmark and I feel like the speakers had a lot more to offer then the electronics I had paired with them could extract.
What Power Amplifier Should I Buy?
I am looking to increase my system power. I currently am using a Bryston 2.5B cubed, which is specified at 135 Watts/CH. I am using Revel f208 speakers crossed over at 120 Hz to a 15" HSU sub. The f208 speakers have 88.5 dB sensitivity (Amir measured 88-89dB SPL at 1W into 8 ohms). I sit about 7.5 feet away from the speakers and listen up to 92 dB SPL, but mostly stay between 80-90 dB SPL at my listenin g location.
I have not had power issues. I've never seen a clipping light. I just want more oomph. I've never had a power amp with more power than the 2.5B cubed.
My budget is about $5K. I have been looking at some used 4b cubed amps.
My preamp is a vintage ML No. 38s. Digital from Bryston BDP-3/BDA-3 combo. Analog using Koetsu RS and Shelter 901 cartridges into an SUT (20x) followed by a very vintage Paragon System E used as a phono preamp (I have fully repaired this preamp, particularly the power supply).
I like the sound of the 2.5B cubed. I had a Cary 120 tube amp for some time, but grew tired of the heat and the continuous maintenance, including the insane prices for tubes. I did not experince that great "tube sound" that others rave about. I sold the Cary and went back to the 2.5B cubed.
Will the 4B cubed disappoint?
What other amps should I consifder, new or used?
Thanks for your help!
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- 114 posts total
@jbuhl Hi, see my system pics. Room dims are there. |
Well, I’m at a loss as to how you’ll get “more oomph” or “more power for transients” as I just don’t know what that means. I will say that after looking at your setup I think it’s highly unlikely your sub is positioned anywhere near optimally in terms of working best in your room. Not sure what method you used for how/where to place it, but it’s almost never where you have yours and something else to consider if it’s only there for convenience. I’d suggest reading Todd Welti’s research or even just the subwoofer “crawl method” to get ideas on finding optimal/better sub placement in your room. FWIW, and best of luck in finding what you’re looking for. |
@kevemaher Last year I was considering the same amp you have. I talked directly to Bryston about my room and they said the 2.5 should have plenty of power. Your room is slightly smaller than mine. Based on that and your updated comments about improved transients I would consider scrutinizing the pre. I saw a well regarded poster on here one time respond to the question "What does a pre add" and the answer was "Richness". I couldn’t agree more after my testing. Could that solve your SQ improvement needs? Another thing to consider is the BDP-3 is now out of production. Although Bryston has a solid reputation of supporting OOP models there is no guarantee the BDP-3 will support the new OS3 that is in the works. The BR-20 Pre should have the hardware to support the new Bryston streaming OS. Then you pick up the synergy between the Bryston Pre and Amp. Fair number of reviews out there on the BR-20. |
- 114 posts total