Almost time to arm the Victor TT 101


Hey everybody!

Three years ago or more, I got my Victor TT 101 back from JP. Chakster sold me one of his and it went directly to JP to get overhauled. Exterior mint condition. It took JP forever to finish it, with good reason. He said he'd never worked one that had this many issues. With each fix, something else failed or wouldn't work. But, he accomplished the impossible and sent it to me where it would sit for a couple more years as I was too scared to set the arms and carts. I'm a deer in headlights when it comes to this stuff, I really am. I can't seem to find anyone locally to guide me through the setup process and I was too drunk and high (sober now) to dare align things myself.

My friends, life is different now. I've got clarity and a little courage. With the help of my Russian friend, were gonna get my new arm boards bored, arms fixed and carts aligned! I've got a nice Victor UA-7082 that will go nice on that table. Not sure the other arm, I've got many, maybe my Technics EPA 100? Sony perhaps. I've got a Victor UA-7045, might go that route as well. Plenty of vintage carts to choose from. After all these years, finally listening to those too! 

Plinth is original with a fresh Teak veneer. Looks sharp. I'd say I'll have it up and spinning within a month or so. Pretty excited!

128x128knollbrent

As I wrote, what I did was to brace the OEM plinth with aluminum nearly covering the bottom with one inch thick pieces that I fixed to the plinth with heavy duty wood screws. This in addition to replacing the arm board. You can buy slabs of alu on line. Then you only need to cut it to size, which any machinist will do for you.

Excellent @lewm 

For some reason I thought you have a custom plinth for this drive but maybe it was another TT in your collection. Thanks for the tip!

From Looking at the images of the 101, the bottom of the Platter Spindles Bearing Housing, projects into free space between PCB and the Vented Protection Cover.

A Part can be bought/produced (shaft collar or similar)that clamps onto the Bearing Housing and projects through a penetration made into the vented cover.

Additional Base Bracing, can then be designed to receive the projecting part, to incorporate a anchor point for the base of the Bearing Housing.

On the Base Bracing, another collar can be added that has the walls drilled to receive Grub Screws or Similar, these can then be used to apply force to the bearing base, and lock it rigidly, in interference fit is not desirable as the rigidly anchoring method.

Lenco Heaven has been showing TT designs doing this for numerous years, a method can be found that is to ones own liking.

I encouraged this on a TTS 8000 not too long ago and the owner was thoroughly impressed with the improvements detected, they has a Stock and Modified model to do comparisons on. The TTS was a much more difficult model to achieve this type of anchoring the bearing housing on.

Knoll, by the time I had my TT101 up and running, I had no energy for creating a new plinth, after having done that for Lenco, DP80, and SP10 mk3.