What is the science behind audiophile fuses?


There were many threads on the topic of "audiophile fuses" on this forum, and I sure don't want to open old wounds and trench warfare. The fuse on my preamp blew suddenly two days ago, which prompted me to search for a replacement. That's when I came across the term "audiophile fuse" and the fact that they demand far-out prices. Deeper curiosity brought me to several other fora, where users posted glowing praises about their Zero fuses and other exotica. Now I am a scientist, but not a physicist or electrical engineer: so please enlighten me! How can a fuse have an audible influence on the signal, when the signal does not even pass through it? How can a fuse be "directional" when it deals with alternate current? I mean, if I recall my university physics, a fuse is basically a safety valve and nothing more. Am I completely missing an important point here? My scientific field is drug discovery, and because of this background I am thoroughly familiar with the power and reality of the placebo effect. I that's what I am seeing here, or is it real physics? I need objective facts and not opinions, please. I really appreciate your help!

 
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@devinplombier I worked to develop a way to adapt the SDFB without an extra power cord and it isn't hard to do for a specific amp.  but every amp uses a different IEC receptacle on the back and every receptacle has a slightly different fuse configuration.  

So if you adapt the SDFB to plug into the fuse compartment on one amp, it likely won't fit onto another amp.  Just too much work to make it custom for every amp. 

Add to that the fact that there there is no performance improvement.  I was attempting it solely becasue there are a very large number of audiophiles with zero electrical knowledge and they can't get it through their head that the way SDFB is delivered provides the same, or better, protection.  They think putting the slug in the fuse location is heresy.

Jerry

Thanks @tksteingraber - the SDFB looks well made with heavy wire where necessary (except to the LED).  It appears to be a breaker with a small control board, likely for the automatic reset.

If I were to use one, I might hard wire a pig tail power cord to get rid of one IEC, but I make PCs so one more short cord is really no problem. 

@carlsbad2 ,    @mitch2 ,

You guys are light years ahead of me with this stuff and I have a question for you:

If you have a dedicated line to your amp, and your amp has say 6.3 amp fast blow fuses in it, would putting a low current 6 amp breaker in your panel do the same thing? 

 

@tksteingraber

Thanks for posting the picture of SDFB.

@carlsbad2

It sounds like you’ve put a lot of thought and effort into addressing a concern from some of us. I am ok with slugs but don’t want a pigtail in the signal path so let’s see if SDFB would make a version that can be plugged directly into a component IEC.

@thecarpathian I don't think so.  but I'll give it more thought.

The breakers in your panel are a combination of thermal and magnetic.  The thermal component doesn't cause much problem because it is rated much higher so it doesn't act as a current limiter at low currents.  Lowering it to the level of your fuse would make it cause the same negative effects of limiting bass and dynamics. 

6.3A is a pretty big fuse.  You must have a big amp. If you have a big amp, with big copper coils and lots of stored energy, you may not benefit much from fuse changes or elimination.

Jerry