Rank choice of three turntables

Great insight from everyone. I love that set up Elliot!! I wish I had the larger plinth for the Victor table as I have wanted to tryout my 12" VPI Fatboy Gimbal. 

I own the JVC QL-10 and it seems to work fine. I have not officially tried it out as I am in the middle of selling my house and acquired it recently. 

The SP-10 I bought with a AT-1503 for $25 at a radio station sale last year. They stated that it does not hold speed, which I confirmed. 

I had an opportunity to purchase the DDX-1500 but I think the price is a little out of reach. I like that I can add multiple arms of different lengths to it. It also has a heavier platter. 

Does platter weight really matter with DD's? I think it is mostly a concern of ringing, but I'm skeptical about that. 

I also have a TT-71 from a JVC-QL-A7 with a busted arm. I kept in case the TT-101 goes the way of the Dodo. 

I'm trying to scale things down because moving these guys around is a pain (mainly the packing). 

I'm becoming more of a fan MM cartridges, because they are much better than MC die hards give them credit for and I'm getting tired of paying top dollar for rebuilds. 

Elliot, how do you like that Lustre 801?

Lewm, any advise on the Victor TT-101? Is there a method of polishing out the discoloration on the side of the platter? 

Thanks for all this great information.

I love the Acos Lustre GST-801, it is my favorite arm, I wish they made a long version. It is the only one I change both arm height and anti-skate while playing, it is that smooth. The headshell fitting allows a bit of twist when loose to adjust azimuth and firms up when tightened, even though I would prefer Micro Seiki's adjustable fitting. I use the mirror method for azimuth, a mini-level on the headshell, an acrylic block with grid .... a mixture of techniques, and the blank side lp method to see skate and the effects while adjusting anti-skate force.

The UA-7082 top anti-skate dial is so smooth and precise, my new favorite adjuster, I changed it while playing, but the arm height needs two hands, thus tool-free but not while playing. 

It’s about far more than ringing,

I think the heavy and solid cast iron platter of my Thorens TD124 was one reason it produced the best bass I ever had, not just inertia for speed stability which is important in belt or idler wheel drive, but solid,

10lbs of cast iron, my instincts say better than 10lbs of acrylic .... perhaps better than 20lbs of arylic, I never had/heard that, just instincts

I wish my JVC TT81 had 10lbs of cast iron, or something as solid but non-magnetic.

the sandwich pair of 1/4" thick iron plates in it’s plinth are part of what I like about the Luxman PD-444 design I helped my friend acquire and set up.

Cast iron, or any iron in the platter material, is not always compatible with especially LOMC cartridges that have powerful magnets.  I think this issue has been cited by TD124 users. Caveat emptor.

Eno, I have not had a problem with discoloration of the platter of my TT101, but if I did, I would approach it as if it were a piece of discolored metal, in terms of how to remove the undesired stain. But there are limits to what you can do to a TT platter that must remain balanced or as near balanced as the factory tolerated. For example, I would not try to grind on the metal or polish it too extensively with power tools. Gentle is the way to go. I would find a way to live with it if gentle methods were ineffective.  The only part of the platter that shows when it is under a mat is the polished edge. Is that where you see discoloration?  Best thing I did for my TT101 was to enhance the mass and rigidity of the plinth by adding aluminum pieces below the deck and replacing the MDF arm board entirely with a piece of solid machined alu. I further re-inforced the arm board from below with more alu that couples to the bearing.