Technics SL-1300G Turntable issues

I just checked your system and you seem totally committed to vinyl. It is very easy to check a platter for proper level. Just use an eye bubble type level and move it around the platter and check that the bubble stays dead center in the eye. Then move your platter to multiple positions and repeat the bubble test. Once you have made a 360 platter revolution and all positions had the bubble centered, you know your platter if leveled and spinning without wobble. However that was not the OP's concern. His concern is over the side of the platter having lines that are not uniform as platter turns. Anyway that was my understanding.

Guys, please read the OP's post before going on about checking the platter being level, he states it is. His complaint is that the cosmetic silver bands at the top and bottom of the outer sloping rim, vary in width. This is a variation of the manufacturing process. The platter is a high pressure die casting, which has the centre hole bored and then the platter is centred on this to true up the casting an a lathe. The silver edges can vary due to this truing up process. (The difference between as cast and machined around the centre hole).
That's all it is.
The OP has to decide if this purely cosmetic variation is something he can live with, or if he requires a different platter that has more equal lines.

As for the modern Technics being substantially better, I would disagree. They are very slightly better, a little mass has been added to the platter and the bearing has been slightly improved, but that's about it. The marketing bull about the new motor being better is just that. I run a DIY turntable using the DD drive motor from an old SL-1200 MkII, if you check the wow and flutter figure, its the same as the SL-1300G (0.025%). You could argue extra torque, but is that needed or audible? My motor runs a heavy 38mm thick acrylic platter and stops and starts on a dime.
They are and always were, a very accurate and stable platform for your records.

@qwin You leave out of consideration that with each version of the 1200 series as well as the 1300 if you read Technic's litterateur each step in the model hierarchy has it's own variation of the direct drive motor that is exclusive to each. Which despite as you stated, "slightly better" they have yet to perfect their direct drive technology and the issues that have plagued it from the beginning still exist such as "cogging", that I'm sure with individuals who have sound systems resolving enough can still hear it. If you do the discovery, you will find this to be the case. Try as they might, they may never surpass the performance of belt drive which still remains the dominant choice and like direct drive, advancements in the technology continue to be developed.

"As for the modern Technics being substantially better, I would disagree. They are very slightly better, a little mass has been added to the platter and the bearing has been slightly improved, but that's about it."

The SL1200G is aproximately 6KG heavier than a 1200 MkII. The platter is nearly double the mass of the 1200Gs and the rest is the solid aluminum plinth and the BMC sub plinth. There are also differences in the arm's engineering.

BTW, I am not burning a particular torch for Technics, though I have previously owned a 1200G and was pleasantly surprised at its performance compared to the SME 20/12a that it replaced.

@faustuss
Cogging! please don’t make me laugh, if cogging was audible, they couldn’t get anywhere near those Wow and flutter figures. Read up on how they measure Wow and Flutter and consider this for yourself, it just doesn’t add up.
I’ve never seen anything written by Technics about cogging and would welcome a link to anything. All designs evolve for a verity of reasons, DD motors are no different, but the stability of these, as measured, has changed little.
Cogging was a term first coined by belt drive manufacturers, to put down DD technology in the early days. The wow and flutter figures of which, they couldn’t match by a factor of 10, at anywhere near the price point.
Belt drive TT’s use electric motors to, that would cog in a similar way, but I stick to my main issue with it, that if it were a real factor, it would destroy wow and flutter figures, which it doesn’t.

@yoyoyaya 
I still say the changes are small, so they bolted a brass plate on top of the platter to create extra mass, wow. The Plinth was always die cast and they had to do something with the arm, the early one used a plastic yoke.
I’m not criticizing, I’m a fan of the Technics tables, but realistic about how much they have improved, over what performed pretty good anyway, despite some dodgy engineering decisions back in the day. The build quality and improvement to parts design has undoubtedly got better, but what impact has any of this had on performance, in any significant way?  

My own Technics DD motor based turntable has more radical changes.
Including my own external power supply, internal regulator and inverted ceramic tipped bearing.