Luxman PD121A - PD441


Hello all

New to the forum so a big thank you in advance and greetings!

I am looking to get my first luxman record player. 
I have been lurking around the internet and initially came upon the Thorens and then the Linn LP12. 

Then by chance came across the Luxman. And now I am hooked on its looks!

After some reading i got it down to the PD121A or the PD441

The 121A comes with an SME 3009 and the PD441 has nothing but I was thinking a Micro seiki 505X. Opinions on the 505X?

Also i read somewhere that the 121A is just a smaller version of the 441. Is this in any way true and to what extent?  What is missing from one to the other???

Look forward to reading some replies and getting into the thick of it all!

Chris

 

chridabs

@chridabs 

After spending a good few hours back and fourth with a seller apparently the 505MKII or MKIII  will not fit on the TP-MT as its 30 mm (1.18 inches). I wouldn't know as I dont have the arm to hand hahahah 

 

The micro 505 requires a hole of 28mm or larger.

According to the Luxman arm base brochure the TP-MT is the correct arm base.

 

Does that include the 505MKII and MKIII?? 

ugh i love being technical but when its all fresh its such a mine field.

What do you think of the seac 308SX? Bare in mind i am not filthy rich just yet but this was on of the options on the list.

 

Thank you again Dover

@pindac 

 

Thats a gorgeous table. Just cant do it in my current situation. Also being pretty fresh to all this I really want to get myself a starting point from which my obsession will take over my life hahah

 

chridabs OP

Bottom plates/configurations (of the arms), VTA adjustable bases vary, (depends what TT it came off of). Mounting parts vary, not all accessory parts are still included. Pay attention, look at many listings until you know what is being sold. Look at what separate parts are listed for sale on hifishark, to learn.

New install in a plinth, you drill a 28mm hole for the arm post. If possible get a/the thick heavy 'stabilizer' bottom nut. If not, you can stack a few nuts to have more weight below. Not needed, but why not. The Acos Lustre GST-801 has a very thick heavy bottom stabilizer nut also.

This listing shows the dark colored OEM stabilizer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335832791607?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=335832791607&targetid=2295557531510&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9003511&poi=&campaignid=21388819155&mkgroupid=173029508548&rlsatarget=aud-1339632007594:pla-2295557531510&abcId=9447217&merchantid=426095894&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=21388819155&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh_GmvUieIS0qgOn2FPCrrMvT&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhafEBhCcARIsAEGZEKLOp3dTzZE1vPNI6UQLUdxOxzeI2srVcJ3rDBtLl8PuSCui-bHdXy0aAt2IEALw_wcB

The lever that tightens to lock the VTA arm height can break, I got a big allen head metric screw for my friend's arm, textured rim, still able to tighten by hand.

Also, for my friend, I needed to get a large washer from a hardware store to provide a transition diameter from the arm post (+/- 26mm?) to the hole in the TT's plate we received.

The sliding/locking arm plates are two layers, the bottom layer is always the same, a big oval cutout, it is the part that locks in the tracks, The top layer varies, small star shape, medium, large hole, it simply screws onto the bottom layer. So, IF needed, a small hole in a top plate could be made bigger if perhaps you receive a plate with too small diameter hole.

However, think long, you might want a different arm in the future. Of course with the 441, you only need 1 lower layer and simply change the top layer as needed, now or the future. 

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