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Wyred 4 Sound STI-500 Breakin Time

I was one of the original W4S Dac1 purchasers and just upgraded to the DAC2 and purchased a STI-500 amp. Have about 60 hours on the amp and 100+ on the DAC2.

I did find that DAC1 sounded better and better after about 200 hours of breakin time. Do the W4S STI amps work the same way?

Want to hear from STI-500 or STI-1000 owners with tips on breaking in these amps and how the quality improves with time. Has anyone used breakin CDs with these amps? Can you break them in at low volumn or do you need to play loudly?

So far, the STI-500 plays loud effortlessly but I am not hearing the detail I was with my previous Bada Amp and PreAmp. It is the amazing detail that I got from the W4S DAC that impressed me so much along with a very natural tone and realistic reproduction of acoustic instruments.
ronwills
digilog5
26 posts
 
I also have the DAC2 directly driving the ST-500 via balanced. I think you may need more than 100 hrs for the DAC2 to burn in. Also after some time you can tweak the STI by changing the two fuses on the modules. There is one on each. I changed mine with the PS-audio fuses and got smoother yet very detailed upper end. From my experience also a good power cable later will benefit both the amp and DAC2, specially the DAC. I changed mine nearly after many months but I got a big step up in soundstage expansion.

Good luck.
jdaniel13
129 posts
 
Fancy power cords, changing fuses...I must be back to Digital.... : ) Just wondering how big the difference between /96 and /192, considering it looks like most back catalogs at EMI/Decca/Chandos/Hyperion--I listen to Classical--have archived at 24/96, should they ever have the "courage" to release their material for downloads at higher resolution?

I've only heard 24/96 via SACD in which original recording was PCM. Better in most cases than "regular" CD.
ronwills OP
52 posts
 
Will have to try the fuses. Had forgotten the positive comments I read about them some time ago. Thanks for reminding me. I do already use some nice Xindak power cords for both units.

One thing that I found helps is putting the DAC2 and my NETGEAR 9150 on Vibrapods - very inexpensive tweak. The STI500 has three Xindak points (actually looks like a small hockey puck with a half circle drilled out with a metal ball that fits in the drilled out section).

I had purchased the DAC1 (which has now been replaced by the DAC2) very close in timing to my purchase of the Magnepan 1.7s. It took at least 400 hours for the system to break in. I attributed it to the Magnepans' breaking in but never knew which piece of equipment was taking the longest.
inpieces's avatar
inpieces
199 posts
 
Try Furutech fuses instead. I've heard they're better than PS Audio high end versions (which i had in my former STI-1000.)
I would ask for the smoother sounding versions of Furutech.
You'll need 2 fuses, 1 for each monoblock. Try a new PC. Same here, look for a one with good resolving power and smooth.
I believe the Fusion Romance IC's and PC's would be a splendid approach. Email Eric, a very nice person;-)
This is what i should start off with.
Furutech fuses and Fusion Romance PC and IC (xlr ofcourse).
You can also try new feets underneath chassis of amp, not under original feets.
The SSC AS pucks is not very expensive, and give a smoother sound with a bit of weight in the mid. Try avoiding glass shelved equiptment supports.
ronwills OP
52 posts
 
Inpieces - looked up the Fusion Romance IC's but they are a bit too rich for me. I started another thread on cables that can be purchased around $500 and got some great ideas.

I think your idea about the fuses is a good one. I need to find the values of the fuses in the ST500 and then figure out how to get the cover off.

In addition, I will at some point bypass the Magnepan 1.7 fuses and go direct to the tweeter panel. May give it another few months (they are still so new!).
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