Listing of Opamps for EE Minimax DAC Plus


Phil from Cimmaron Technology sent me a list of approved Opamps for
respective positions on the board of the EE Minimax DAC Plus; prices
include the Brown Dog Adapters provided by Cimmaron. I have been using
in the U1/U2 position the OPA2604 and in the U6/U7 position the OPA827.
I have not Opamp rolled this unit much, as I have been busied with other
components for review. I attest that the DAC Plus in SS output with the
tube removed and these opamps is sensational.

(NOTE CAREFULLY the warning at the bottom NOT to use the AD 8620 in the U1/U2 positions!) Also note that the positioning of the opamps/adapter is always with the small square solder point on the topside of the Opamp at the upper right hand when the unit is facing the installer. Finally, it is recommended that an opamp extraction tool and an anti-static device be used when removing/installing Opamps.

Is it "worth it"? YES! YES! YES! :)

RECOMMENDATIONS OF OPAMPS FROM CIMMARON TECHNOLOGY:
For U1/U2
Single-channel op-amps mounted on the 020302 SO8-to-DIP8 single-to-dual
channel adapter:
qty 2 each required

020302-OPA627 $48.00 x 2 = $96.00
020302-OPA827 $38.00 x 2 = $76.00
020302-AD797B $48.00 x 2 = $96.00

. . . also for U1/U2
Dual-channel op-amps mounted on the 970601A SO8-to-DIP8 adapter
qty 2 each required

970601A-AD8620 $23.00 x 2 = $46.00
970601A-OPA2604 $13.00 x 2 = $26.00
970601A-OPA2134 $10.00 x 2 = $20.00

For U6/U7
Single-channel op-amps mounted on the 970601A SO8-to-DIP8 adapter
qty 2 each required

970601A-OPA627 $28.00 x 2 = $56.00
970601A-OPA827 $23.00 x 2 = $46.00
970601A-AD797B $23.00 x 2 = $46.00

The AD 8620 should not be used in the DAC PLUS.
"On some forum there was a suggestion to use the AD8620. for positions U1
and U2. While this is a dual op-amp, it is only rated to use up to
plus/minus 13 volts. The circuit in the EE Mini Max DAC and DAC Plus is
plus/minus 15 volts."
douglas_schroeder
The Burson's do not fit under the top cover of the DAC. I do not recommend using as they also draw a lot of current.

Very much so the op-amps make a difference. I still like the OPA2604 duals and the OPA827 singles.
@Morningstaraudio, you're right the DIP versions do not fit with the lid on. However, the flylead version fits but you need to bend the legs.
I think the sound difference is worth it :)
Having lived with the DEXA Discrete op-amps for about 3 weeks now, they really do seem to be the one's to beat. I highly recommend for the tube output the Philips E80CC pinched waist D getter version as a substitute for the 12au7. Although this tubes is twice the length and you won't be able to put the tube shield in place anymore , and being that this isn't a direct substitute for the 12AU7 as it draws twice as much heater current, Alex Yeung the designer says it is ok to use. This tube with the Dexa's is fantastic!
Bill
Can you describe the sound with the Dexa's in, on another site the user said it gave body to instruments, something that may be lacking with stock op amps

Regards
Bruce
I have been enjoying my minimax plus with dual Burson's in U1\U2 and the Dexa's in U6\U7 for a few months now and couldn't be happier. I find the sound to be stunning. Although with some recordings I like the sound of the Burson's with a Amperex orange NOS tube from pearl cryo better. You sacrifice some of the vivid resolution with the tube as well as output level, but you get a nicer, softer sound when listening to harsher recordings. I bought the flying lead version of the Burson's and trimmed them down to about 3\16" and carefully lined them up to the socket holes and wiggled them in. It was a delicate procedure, but they are in firmly now, and they clear the lid. I later thought of a better way of doing it which I'll cut and paste from another forum to save the typing.

for those who wish to roll with the Burson opamps without the hassle of having to buy the flying lead version, and deal with the shady process of trimming and worrying about the leads bending and potentially snapping off. The original reason I didn't go with the much sturdier dip lead version was because of the clearance issues with the lid. I've thought of a solution. All you need to do is buy some sheets of a product such as:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-030

to use as a spacer\gasket. Stick it to the inside of the lid (not sure how many layers it will take, could just be 1 but buy 4 they are cheap enough), cut a little square out where the bursons line up with the lid, and also a square where the vent holes for the tube cooling are. You will also need to find some longer machine screws to attach the lid and make some little holes in the material where they need to go through. This method will effectively allow enough clearance for the dip version, plus you will reap the benefits of a sound deadened lid! Why didn't I think of this before?