Jim, the hanging counterweight is good on my arm, but I don't know how it will affect the Well-Tempered. If the turntable doesn't bounce around much, it may be ok. It is not too good on Linns and tables that have springy suspensions. Also, if you are going to try it, I'd recommend using a rubber O-ring slid onto your end-stub at the correct place, and using that to stop the string from sliding backwards when you cue the tonearm. I found that without the O-ring as a "stop", the string wants to ride backward on the tonearm when you cue it, and then you lose your VTF setting, and it is a pain in the butt. The O-ring placed behind the string, at the correct point for the proper VTF setting, keeps the string from sliding and will retain your VTF setting, and is much more pleasant to use.
It is worth a try to use the hanging counterweight. It's cheap and easy to fabricate. If it doesn't do well in your application, it's no big loss. You can always go back to adding weight to your existing counterweight, like you were going to do.
The main idea is to hang it like a swing, with the string going across the arm tube, and holding the counterweight cross-wise, so it doesn't rotate around. Just hook the string to both ends of the lead bar. This works in my application, and the rubber O-ring keeps it in place on the end stub. It takes a little fiddling to find the exact place on the end-stub for the O-ring to be, but a few minutes with the VTF scale, and some very fine placement adjustment of the ring, will give you the proper spot. Once this is done, you can even totally remove the counterweight, and then replace it with the string against the front edge of the O-ring, and you have the same VTF setting. It is like a place holder. It just stops the string from sliding backwards. It isn't a clamp for the string, just a slide-stop.
Make the lead bar the same, or slightly heavier than your existing counterweight. Make the string the right length, so that when you hang the weight on your end-stub, the lead bar is about at the same level as the platter surface. Then slide the O-ring onto the end-stub, adjust the position until you get correct VTF with the string right up against the front edge of the O-ring. That's it.
Hopefully, there will be no parts of the tonearm housing that will be in the way of this during use. If there is, then you have to modify, or go back to Plan A.
It is worth a try to use the hanging counterweight. It's cheap and easy to fabricate. If it doesn't do well in your application, it's no big loss. You can always go back to adding weight to your existing counterweight, like you were going to do.
The main idea is to hang it like a swing, with the string going across the arm tube, and holding the counterweight cross-wise, so it doesn't rotate around. Just hook the string to both ends of the lead bar. This works in my application, and the rubber O-ring keeps it in place on the end stub. It takes a little fiddling to find the exact place on the end-stub for the O-ring to be, but a few minutes with the VTF scale, and some very fine placement adjustment of the ring, will give you the proper spot. Once this is done, you can even totally remove the counterweight, and then replace it with the string against the front edge of the O-ring, and you have the same VTF setting. It is like a place holder. It just stops the string from sliding backwards. It isn't a clamp for the string, just a slide-stop.
Make the lead bar the same, or slightly heavier than your existing counterweight. Make the string the right length, so that when you hang the weight on your end-stub, the lead bar is about at the same level as the platter surface. Then slide the O-ring onto the end-stub, adjust the position until you get correct VTF with the string right up against the front edge of the O-ring. That's it.
Hopefully, there will be no parts of the tonearm housing that will be in the way of this during use. If there is, then you have to modify, or go back to Plan A.