Lenco plinth? How big is too big?


I have an L78, upgraded Origin Live One arm, Empire MC-5 moving coil cartidge, and access to a sawmill with lots of prime cherry wood. I was thinking of a cherry plinth, 17 inches wide, 24 inches long, and six inches tall of cross layered one inch cherry. Then cut off the rear corner where the tone arm is mounted, in a sweeping arc of about 10 inch radius, and mount the tone arm on that detached corner. Use 1 inch thick isomolded graphite disks of 2 inch diameter topped by one 3/8" tungsten carbide ball, and resting on three such balls. Use three of these ball/disk combinations for each of the main plinth and the corner with the tone arm. What do y'all think? I would appreciate any suggestions before actually putting it all together. Thanks. Ralph
ralph1223
Ralph: I noticed in that 6 Moons article from 2004 that it mentioned that Jonathan Halpern wanted to market a Shindo Plinth for < $1000, does anyone know if that was ever realized?
Hi Ralph,

My turntable is 23.5 X 17 X 8. It's about as large as I can handle! Anyway, I submit that the size isn't quite as important as all the other components. How they work in unison is key to the final outcome. I believe you are best served by asking why every step of the process. In my opinion, the justification of every move during the project will yield a better result than any other consideration. In other words, don't just fly into it. Making a rational analysis for everything has a potential for a big payoff at the end. Try to consider every part of the turntable, and every part of the plinth, in a big way. If you do that, you can't lose.

In short, research everything, no matter how small.

Best of luck!
Win
Ralph, I am not sure I can properly visualize your method of mounting the tonearm, that involves cutting off a corner of your plinth. It sounds as though you intend to de-couple the tonearm mount from the major part of the plinth. There are differing opinions on this, but lots of smart guys think that the tonearm mount should be tightly coupled to the plinth and hence to the main bearing of the table. This sounds like a good idea to me. If my perception of your design is correct, you might want to re-think the mounting of the tonearm. Maybe Win and Jean can chime in on this topic.
Lewm, I had the same impression from Ralph's arm mount description and the same sense of caution.

In ongoing design for my SP-10 plinth, I'm intending to bolt down the armboards (2) with brass machine screws. Each armboard will be 3/4" thick and replace that section of the top 3/4" layer of birch ply. The idea of cutting off the end of the plinth then reattaching the arm somehow sounds questionable to me.

Ralph, concerning how big, you might want to read some of Jonnantais' experiments with various plinth materials and size.
Lew,

I am probably in the minority here when it comes to the issues surrounding tonearm coupling. I do believe that mounting the tonearm to the plinth in a secure way is indeed the only way to go, but I stop short of your comment regarding an interaction with the bearing. Still, it should be a non-compliant mount, in my opinion. All this begs many questions about isolation, neutrality and what it all means. It also goes to the issue of dissimilar materials in the build. Should that apply only to the plinth? I don't believe so. What I do believe is that every small part, and how that part is applied, counts. I also believe there are various ways to get there, and in the end very different turntables can reach the goal. It is a very complex process, and there are no fast answers...unfortunately.