The SME setup jig has two basic problems. (One may or may not be a problem depending on the cartridge.)
1.) The method of reading and making adjustments leaves too big a margin for error, and the overhang can be off by as much as +/_ 3 to 4 mm.
2.) Unless the stylus tip falls directly below the pointed tip of the headshell (and most do), the SME jig will not be accurate anyway.
Yes, I also think the cantilever must be centered in and parallel with the cartridge body. I sent my vdH Frog back to be better aligned.
As for damping. MC cartridges are generally less compliant than MM's and so can usually do with a little damping. All other settings (particularly anti-skate) must be right on before trying to assess damping effects. I usually adjust anti-skate visually, increasing it until, when viewed from the front, the stylus/cantilever remain in the same position (relative to the cartridge body) in or out of the groove.
I think it's important to fill the trough right up to the first ledge (the instructions show it a little below.) Using a strong flashlight with the arm lift "up" and the arm swung to the center of the platter, I just lower the paddle/screw until it touches the surface of the silicone.
You can then increase the depth one turn at a time, but the effects are subtle. Too deep always reduces both image focus and overall output, because the outer groove wall is pushing so hard against the stylus to overcome the damping force that the stylus can't "wiggle" freely enough to trace the groove.
Damping is an adjustment that can't be objectively measured and really has to be done by ear (unless you have an ocilloscope.) I usually use a symbol crash, and adjust for the cleanest sounding decay -- that's always seemed to work. It's better to err on the side of too little IMO.
1.) The method of reading and making adjustments leaves too big a margin for error, and the overhang can be off by as much as +/_ 3 to 4 mm.
2.) Unless the stylus tip falls directly below the pointed tip of the headshell (and most do), the SME jig will not be accurate anyway.
Yes, I also think the cantilever must be centered in and parallel with the cartridge body. I sent my vdH Frog back to be better aligned.
As for damping. MC cartridges are generally less compliant than MM's and so can usually do with a little damping. All other settings (particularly anti-skate) must be right on before trying to assess damping effects. I usually adjust anti-skate visually, increasing it until, when viewed from the front, the stylus/cantilever remain in the same position (relative to the cartridge body) in or out of the groove.
I think it's important to fill the trough right up to the first ledge (the instructions show it a little below.) Using a strong flashlight with the arm lift "up" and the arm swung to the center of the platter, I just lower the paddle/screw until it touches the surface of the silicone.
You can then increase the depth one turn at a time, but the effects are subtle. Too deep always reduces both image focus and overall output, because the outer groove wall is pushing so hard against the stylus to overcome the damping force that the stylus can't "wiggle" freely enough to trace the groove.
Damping is an adjustment that can't be objectively measured and really has to be done by ear (unless you have an ocilloscope.) I usually use a symbol crash, and adjust for the cleanest sounding decay -- that's always seemed to work. It's better to err on the side of too little IMO.
