Cartridge Break-In


Installed new cartridge and was just wondering about break-in techniques. Manufacturer recommends 50 hrs of playing time to presumably work in the suspension components. Obviously, playing a record would work best, but would simply placing the tonearm/cartridge on a non-spinning record and leaving it there also contribute to break-in? I'm thinking it really wouldn't be as effective since the suspension has only been displaced, but is not kept in motion the way playing a record would cause. Here's where it get strange, suppose I placed my turntable (a non-suspension design) on top of my subwoofer and played some bass oriented music thru my CD player? I could play with the volume level to control the amount of acoustic transfer from the sub to the turntable/arm/cartridge and thereby "excite" the cartridge into some sort of, hopefully controlled, motion. Alternatively, I could place the turntable directly in front of my woofers and play music at a high volume from a digital source. Would any of these "techniques" even roughly accomplish what playing a record does as far as cartridge break-in goes?

Just speculating on a hypothesis.
128x128onhwy61
Thomasheisig, explain in detail how you used the AT stylus cleaner. I have an equivalent model from D&K. I'm be concerned about the stylus vibrating off the pad.
Onhwy61, what kind of cartridge is yours? I ask, because if it's a MC, then 47K ohms is WAY too high a loading and will give you "tipped up in the treble and the bass is uneven" no matter how long you break it in.

A good rule of thumb (starting point) for MC load is 25 times the specified coil resistance.

I can't think of a (safe) quicker way to break in the cartridge than using the Cardas record. I also have an AT stylus cleaner (which vibrates at a single frequency, I don't know what it is exactly) It's an intriguing idea, but I'm not sure I'd want to use it on my cartridge for 100 hours -- it seems a little strong, to say nothing of the batteries it might use up. And I agree with you, I'd be nervous about leaving that kind of setup unattended!

The reason BTW for the 100 hour +/_ break-in time we all talk about, is because the modern polymers used in suspensions require a certain number of flex/relax cycles before the long-chain molecules settle into place and get as tightly packed as they're going to. So it's not really not about how hard you flex the material as how many times.

Of course it's just my own personal style, but given the choice, I almost always go for the more moderate approach . . . .

Neil

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Dear Onhwy: "" Just play records, forget about break-in and enjoy the ride. ""

That's all about.

"""" phono board to 47k ohm loading and 55dB gain .. """"

If this is the manufacturer suggestion, it is a good point to start, if not my advise is that you load the cartridge as the manufacturer suggest.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Only have limited number of choices on cartridge loading (30, 100, 400, 47k). The distributor says 1k to 47k. Dealer recommended the settings I'm using as a starting point.
Onhwy, if Raul says:

"Just play records, forget about break-in and enjoy the ride."

You should remember that is the "Gospel according to Raul", but not necessarily the gospel Truth!

Please remember that Raul and others have personal opinions which they have a habit of expressing as absolute facts. Do not misunderstand me, I have nothing against opinions -- I just think they should carry a proper disclaimer.

I have given you some verifiable information about the stress performance of modern polymers, and you can research this further, as I have, by using the modern miracle of Google.

Further, re cartridge loads, only a few manufacturers (like van den Hul, for instance) bother to state an optimum load for their products, even the very expensive ones. Most give a range that starts at the coil resistance (5 to 30 ohms or so) and goes to 47K ohms. That doesnt tell you a hell of a lot does it? However, there is a very definite electrical relationship (called impedance matching) between a cartridge's internal resistance and the load it is working into (just like between a preamp and amp). The customary starting point is usually a multiple of 25 times the cartridge's internal resistance. This has been arrived at through both experience and experiment. Using it will definitely get you in the ballpark, otherwise you'll be starting outside the stadium parking lot!

If you don't know the coil resistance of your cartridge, give me the make and model and I'll be happy to look it up for you. It may also be listed at www.cartridgedb.com

I hope this helps clarify some of the mystery.