Is Direct Drive Really Better?

I would like to add my two cents to this forum for it seems to me there is an important assumption that is overlooked in the discussion. The assumption is that all people have (more or less) the same pitch sensitivity. So much so that we (audiophiles) can rely on each others’ experience and opinions whether a certain design is pitch accurate or not. Well, from my experience, audiophiles are less reliable than other people in noticing pitch problems (and, more generally, wow and flutter). I could try to explain this phenomenon but this is not my concern here. My concern here is only to say that when people claim that belt drive is better or worst than DD or idler wheel, they either rely on theory or on their own ears, and neither should be trusted too much. I have seen it happen that a group of audiophiles were so impressed with the resolution of a system, its dynamic impact or its huge soundstage, that the fact that the turntable was completely off pitch evaded their notice. This is why I think that at least in this department, measurements are mandatory (although people should also take heed of the fact that measurements are done on test records, not what we actually listen to).

The problem is made worse by the fact that there is another factor which affects wow and flutter: the compliance of arm and cartridge, and also, (what I have learned only recently), the vibrations coming from the turntable. So perfect speed stability of turntable might not be enough.

Now from my experience, belt drives do indeed have pitch problems, but some more than others. For example, I have a suspicion that some of the pitch problems I have had with my Nottingham Analogue Space-Deck are due to its LONG belt (people who are saying the NA is accurate notwithstanding since I have heard the same problems at my local dealer’s showroom). Shorter belt designs, like Linn and Rega, might have an advantage here, in my view, but this is theory so take it with a grain of salt. My experience, on the other hand, with the Rega showed it had a serious pitch problem whereas the only Linn I have heard was hooked to the Lingo, and it sounded quite accurate, as far as I remember. So Power supplies are also important, but I resent the fact that after you spend a few thousand dollars on a high-end turntable, you still need to add more to play it accurately.

As for the Lenco's mentioned above, I have now two 75's and one 78 (NOS) in my home, NONE of them plays accurately. I already cleaned and oiled them, put on a refurbished idler wheel (new rubber) and nothing helped. I mentioned the tonearm - compliance issue above: the flutter is most pronounced when I use a Rega rb-250 arm, a bit less with SME 3009III, and least with Lenco's own arm and cartridge. Go figure. Now my audiobody tells me I should use a power line filter but, again, I believe a good turntable should play accurately out of the box, so to speak. I am therefore somewhat puzzled when I read the comments above that the Lenco is as accurate as the Technics sp-10. Not the ones I have here, and this is quite a representative sample, I believe. .

No to DD's: the most accurate turntable I have heard so far is the Goldmund Studio. To my ears it is CD accurate. I sold it to my audiobody since my wife didn't like its coloration (yes, from the motor). Indeed, compared to the NA it is VERY colored. But the fact is that whenever I want to listen to accurate piano music and no jitter (from my CD player, that is, which does play perfect pitch) I go to visit my friend. I wanted to buy it back from him but he is not willing to let it go. He sold his modern belt-drive deck and seems to be happy with it. So this says something about good DD. And so I’m still searching for a turntable that will be both neutral sounding like the NA, and pitch accurate like the Goldmund. I heard that (as some mentioned here) the heavy-platter ones are the way to go. But I still need to listen to one of them WITH MY OWN EARS. Sorry, I don't trust audiophiles anymore.

To my ears it is CD accurate.

Sorry, I don't trust audiophiles anymore.

Me neither. ;-)

I see this thread keeps on going! Actually Taviran, I didn't write that the Lencos were "as" accurate as SP10s, I wrote they were "more" accurate! Heard it in more than one system too. The Lencos are unresponsive to power-line tricks too, in my experience. But rather than encourage you to track the problem down, I'd rather you contact me so I can take them off your hands, especially the NOS one!

I'd add that with your experience you are by definition an audiophile, so logically I guess we can't trust you either. The French make a distinction between types of audiophile: those who love the equipment for the music they can produce, placing the music/software first, are called "melomane"; and those who love the equipment for the detail/information it can extract, thus focusing on the equipment more than the music/software (buying LPs based strictly on how they make a system sound is not "melomane" but equipment-oriented), are simply "audiophiles". Both know more about stereo equipment than your average bear, and so are forms of audiophile.

Johnnantais:

"types of audiophile: those who love the equipment for the music they can produce, placing the music/software first, are called "melomane"; and those who love the equipment for the detail/information it can extract, thus focusing on the equipment more than the music/software"

Maybe it's just the way you put it in translation, but to me this is a false distinction. All are audiophiles because all "love the equipment". (Personlly, I think I've passed the point where I can love my equipment for its own sake, perhaps only doing so when it's playing music the way I want it to, but maybe I just own the wrong equipment.) To me, the amount of information your equipment can extract, as you put it, from your recordings is a good 75% of the reason for doing any of this in the first place, with the other 25% falling to that equipment's intrinsic "sound" which is not on the recording. At least that's if we're doing this right.

"I see this thread keeps on going!"

Oh yeah, you're a great one to talk! ;^)

Just a question about this discussion.

Let's say that we somehow determine what kind of drive system has the best speed control. Determined through accepted measurements which group wow and flutter together. Even though it is patently apparent that most here do not even differentiate between the very different nature of wow or flutter components of these speed variations. Or what ramifications are involved with either of those variation types, as regards our hearing sensitivity.

What are we to do with that information?

Are we going to extrapolate that all forms of that type of drive system are then superior to all other forms? Or that no other type of drive system can compete, even at various levels of price?

And then are we going to look at all the other things that encompass a TT drive system, which are all equally important as the speed control? Such as vibration-induced information loss or exaggeration? Main bearing design? Platter construction? Etc?

Or are we going to blindly fly out and buy some form of that drive system, like lemmings over the cliff?

And, mind you, that what may measure best today, may be exceeded tomorrow by something else. Life at the top is fleeting. And remember, measuring the best very often does not equate to sounding the best.

I've lived with components in my system which are all far below the pinnacle of performance for many years, and still do today. Am I disappointed with my system? No, to the contrary I'm very happy with it because it makes music very nicely.

Unless you are willing to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars chasing the end of the rainbow(that you'll never reach), I'd suggest finding a nice group of components you can live with, and enjoy your music on them.

Lately, the audiophile climate is reminding me more and more of the late 70's and early 80's, with spec wars and the resulting poor performance that came with them.