whats the best styus cleaner gel

I switched from Exteme Phono to Magic Eraser over a year ago. Much better and $2 supply will last many many years. Search the archives and try it...Cheers,
Spencer

As the co-discoverer of the Magic Eraser as stylus cleaner, I still agree with Spencer. We've owned a ZeroDust. We still have an XtremePhono lying around somewhere. We've tried RRL #9 (liquid).

None of these works as well as a properly applied Magic Eraser followed by a dry brush. I've been using it for over two years with successful results and it costs next to nothing. Search the archives on VA and you'll find literally hundreds of testimonials.

A friend recently sent his (very expensive) cartridge in for inspection and possible retipping. It was no longer sounding clean and dynamic. The manufacturer told him it didn't need retipping. It needed cleaning. This stylus had been religiously "cleaned" with a ZeroDust after every side.

Jonathon Carr of Lyra explained to me that heat and friction from the stylus-vinyl interace leave a mono-molecular layer of vinyl bonded to the stylus after each side. This layer must be removed or it will continue to accrue. (A stylus with this layer tends to look cloudy or yellow.)

Gels won't remove this layer, they aren't aggressive enough. Liquids won't remove it unless they contain alchohol or other solvents that are dangerous to the suspension. What's needed is something that will physically abrade those vinyl molecules loose. Linn used to recommend a bit of fine sandpaper. That works, but the Magic Eraser is safer and probably more effective. It is compliant enough to clean all sides of a stylus without stressing the cantilever, yet abrasive at electron microscope levels of magnification - exactly what's needed.

YMMV of course, but the Magic Eraser combines sound scientific backing with the practical endorsement of hundreds of satisfied users. I wish I could sell them for $25 apiece!

I second the Magic Eraser. I put crazy-glue on a plastic coffee stirrer and jamb it into a sugar-cubed size piece. Then with the TA in its rest (locked down) I lift it up against the stylus/cantilever and then back down. No back-and-forth action! Not necessary -- I've checked w/ a scope. THEN I use the ZeroDust to remove any particles. I've found it removes more than a soft brush, there's no risk of damage, and most important (again I've checked this w/ a scope) the ZerpDust removes the crap in that pesky spot BEHIND the stylus up near the cantilever -- whereas brushing (back to front) won't get rid of it.

Grain alcohol (Everclear 190 proof, almost 100% grain alcohol) dampened on either a vdH or AQ -type stylus brush or on one of the original vibrating versions (uses the same kind of brush) will get rid of the glaze Doug mentions, but only if you use the 100% grain alcohol. "Dampened" means you put several drops on the brush 'til it saturates, then just before use (100% grain evaporates in a flash) press the brush against a tissue or clean cloth and use immediately. There's no chance of any getting up the cantilever this way (it evaporates too fast anyway!) and it will get a stylus absolutely "sparkling" new.

I'm totally against any kind of stylus conditioners (StyLast, etc.) First of all, I can't imagine any kind of coating (except maybe epoxy!) sticking to a stylus through more than one rotation of a record! And there exists a real possibility of it travelling up the cantilever -- and besides, how are you supposed to get the build-up off the cantilever after several applications?!

If you want to improve the stylus/vinyl interface, treat the vinyl. I really like Last preservative. I know a lot of people don't, and I don't use it on every record myself, but here's what it does: Vinyl has a lot of volatile compounds in it (stuff that evaporates out in time like "new car smell") An older record (over 10 years, not sealed) will, to a greater or lesser degree, lose enough of these compounds to cause a certain amount of microscopic crazing (like a dry riverbed or old furniture finishes). Last replaces these compounds. It can't repair the microscopic cracks of course, but it causes the vinyl to "swell" just enough to close them up.

The "problem" with Last Preservative, is that no amount of post-treatment buffing will make the record immediately playable, nor will a quick spin on your vacuum record cleaning machine totally get rid of any excess. You simply have to play the record at least once so the stylus pressure can "squeeze" any excess out of the reconditioned vinyl. Other than that hassle, this is not bad thing for the stylus, which I've checked afterward, and the residue seems to come away cleanly with just a ZeroDust.

The good news is you only have to do it once every 10 years ;<)) It will not be affected by subsequent cleanings with record solutions, if they don't have alcohol in them.

Neil's tips for using the ME are exactly right. Here's one more especially for those with shaky fingers or poor closeup vision.

It's just as effective and possibly safer to dip the stylus into a piece of ME as it is to poke the stylus with a piece of ME on a stick.

Cut off a coin-sized piece of ME and glue it to, well, a coin! Place the coin on the platter and dip the stylus in and out a couple of times using the cueing lever.

It does make sense that a ZeroDust or ExtremePhono could remove loosened particulates better than a dry brush. Now where did I put that thing... ?

Never heard of Magic Eraser, what the heck is it?

A member I bought a cartridge from threw in a ZeroDust he had lying around as an afterthought when I picked up the cart, so I didn't pay for mine. I'm glad I didn't. Oh, it works perfectly well for removing dust and grime from the stylus. But from what I can tell, the polymer 'gel' material itself is the same kind of stuff that 'plastic worm' fishing lures are made from, minus any additives like colors or stanky oils. You can buy that plastic for about $20/gallon in bulk from tackle suppliers, and a gallon will make several hundred plastic worms in molds you can pour yourself at home, using either a microwave or an inexpensive warming pot to heat the liquid plastic to about 350F degrees, at which point it turns from milky to crystal-clear and takes a permanent set when cooled. Commercially made plastic worms (with extra additives) sell for a few bucks per package at retail stores. ZeroDust sells the equivalent of one worm's worth of molded soft plastic as the stylus cleaner, packages it in a toylike hard plastic container with a little piece of foamboard as a substrate, and charges audiophiles, what, $80 a pop? Sheer genius.