Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II


“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b
"Mosin had posted something about a new concept about the idler's assembly or something like that. Mosin ...?...If you read this, can you tell us more about it?" ...As1715

Well,

At the outset of this project around two years ago, I e-mailed Jean with a few bizarre ideas. Then, I made some changes, so I e-mailed him again to tell him that I would retain the "Soul of a Lenco" with enough left that an observer could tell what it was. That was a thousand changes ago. Now, it is finished to the point that I have made a trial run to check its operation. All that remains to be done is the finish, and that is driving me nuts. Only recently did I come to realize that a Steinway is worth every cent simply because piano black is extremely labor intensive. Once that is finished, the turntable will be completed.

That, and the final ingredient which is the idler assembly. I saw a jpeg of it from my friend, InDaGroove, last night. He is a wonderful machinist who made a Schroeder Reference clone that some of you may have seen over at Vinyl Asylum. Anyway, I presented him with an alternate design for the Lenco idler, but he had a better idea, so I scrapped mine. Instead, I went about refining his idea, and it will probably be finished in a day or two. All I will say now is that it is one of those obvious ideas of the "Why didn't I think of that?" variety. I must reluctantly give credit to him for it, but hey, I am supervisor of the project, right? ;) You'll see it soon. I promise that there has never been an idler like it on any make of turntable ever. Best of all, it will be noise free. It is different for sure, but it weighs approximately the same as the standard aluminum Lenco idler. ( The overall weight of the turntable is approximately fifty pounds.) InDaGroove didn't know what an idler turntable was until I explained the mechanism to him. It just goes to show that sometimes a pair of fresh eyes are good to have. I lucked out, and found the perfect pair.

The rest of the turntable does retain the Lenco's soul, but one cannot tell simply by looking at it. It is a single speed design that can be fine tuned, and the linkage has been radically changed, as has the one remaining control. The topplate is history, and VTA issues are a thing of the past, as are resonance issues associated with the top plate. Ringing of the platter has also been corrected. Only idler magic remains, and virtually everything that typically applies to past Lenco modding is not implemented. It is that radical. It does have a single whimsical touch because nothing should take itself that seriously, not even a Lenco.

Hopefully, you guys will see it in a few weeks, maybe in as few as two.

My next project is underway. It is a string driven Rek-O-Kut that employs the Papst Aussenlaufer motor. This three phase design will have precision OCXO control, and each phase of power will be regenerated by stereo channels. A frequency PCB will feed the amps which power the motor. Imagine three very small PS Audio Power Plants with variable speed control. It will be interesting to see how this one rates against the Lenco. Expansive design isn't the order of the day with it, aside from the power supply, so maybe we will be able to find out in a reasonable timeframe. Mark Kelly is designing the circuitry now, and early tests have been successful.
Hi all,
Idlers roll again...I have a pdf that has been given to me by Richard STEINFELD from Lenco Lovers. I contains some "bits" of "Da Thread" and you can get it at http://www.lenco-lovers.com/forum/ in the "Technical and General" section.
It is not the whole thread, but at least 44 pages of tips and tricks: better than nothing ;-)
"Faites rouler les galetets !!!"
François.
You would think the spelling would have been corrected in the thread title for VII, if this is indeed an upgrade ;-}}

Oz
Hi Everyone,

This is my first post, and I thought I'd managed to get hooked just as the thread disappeared...

I've got myself a LEAK delta version of the Lenco, metal idler wheel and all. I've made a new (very ugly!) plinth from left-over chip-board and pine, but I just can't stop the motor vibrating. I've cleaned and re-greased the bearings and bushes at both ends, and tried to get the spring-loaded screw just right, but no good. The 6 mounting springs seem fine too. Any ideas?
Hi Fishwinker,

It seems you are the point where you’ll need to adjust the block that surrounds the armature.
1- Remove the motor from the Lenco and place it on a resonant surface (I find Styrofoam shipping block to be excellent).
2- Hot-wire your motor’s AC, but don’t plug it in yet.
3- Remove the back plate so that you can remove the armature.
4- You’ll see four Philips head screws on the block – break them (the crack of loosening for the first time in a long time). Retighten to “to snug” all except the screw in the 4:30 position as you look at it head on. Leave this one a little looser since it’s hard to get at with the armature remounted spinning.
5- Remount the armature and back plate.
6- Plug in the motor.
7- With the armature hopefully spinning, back off on the three accessible screws until you can move the block orientation.
8- Adjust till you get smooth running.
9- Tighten up the three screws then unplug the motor.
10- Use a 90-degree Philips head driver or a tiny Philips screwdriver to tighten the last screw. You’re done.