Very nice work Peter! You'll have to continue to keep us apprised of developments, and fire me an e-mail when you come up with a price. However, I would like to see the old sliding speed selector thingie if at all possible.
Hi Jim: I fill up to the top of the bolt holes, though it would be simple enough to plug them with something removable and fill it to the brim (but be careful not to overshoot the mark!). I also mixed in some black powdered stain. I used marine-grade epoxy, which is expensive, which I find cures to a true glass-like consistency (I know, because I actually cut myself on a broken piece!), and so is very strong and will go far towards actually strengthening the top-plate. The beauty of this is that it cannot overdamp, since it, in a manner of speaking, doesn't damp at all, but instead strengthens to prevent/eliminate resonances. Or, think of it as a form of damping, but without the risk of affecting the dynamics/energy. A cheaper alternative to marine-grade epoxy would be automobile epoxy-resins used for fibre-glassing, which sell quite cheaply. I don't think, however, that it cures to quite the rigidity the marine-grade stuff does. The marine-grade stuff is all very similar, this stuff is just like the stuff I used in Finland (and I realize now it was quite a gift, and it was a gift at the time, it's quite pricey).
Interesting account Nigel, I will be seeing just how far I can take a Garrard, next project, coming soon!! Of course, plinth materials do make a difference, and one reason I eventually dedicated myself to birch-ply/MDF is because, after trying out several exotic recipes in my earlier Lenco rebuilds, damned if the Birch-ply/MDF didn't make me stop and hear - I think (can't be absolutely certain) - greater dynamics and more even frequency response (deeper tighter bass and higher cleaner highs) or neutrality. Of course, I could be wrong, but it seemed to me this was the case. Building plinths is a lot of work, and building several in various materials just too much work. Then there are synergy issues, where a recipe sounds better because it better counter-balances a given tonearm/cartrdige combo. So I'll just trust my instincts on this one, what a swamp! Say Hi to Malcolm for us, from me especially, he was such a help in the early days with his endless finds of treasure/info.
The AR2ax's continue to amaze me: like the Lenco, most don't know how good these are because they never tried them with serious components (in the Lenco's case, with a serious tonearm). I keep harping on these because for those on a budget, it is the closest thing to a full-range high-end audiophile speaker they will get, and so which will allow them to experience that awesome idler bass AND detail and musical magic!! A heckuva lesson in music reproduction done right (assuming a good amplifier too). (And, in low whispers, those who can afford a new full-range high-end speaker, but just wanna see ust how far a few bucks can go fer a kick, or designers who want to actually learn something and achieve actual progress, shhhhhh....I won't tell anyone ;-)).
I am hoping to try out a very strange and wonderful tonearm, which is pricier than the Rega RB-300 (but not by much once the Rega's mandatory re-wiring is done), but which just might be another budget Giant-Killer (as the MG-1 air-bearing arm already is). Back later with more adventures, I hope :-)!!
