Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II


“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b
Hi all, just a reiteration of a previous rave on piece of vintage audio: the fabulous MAS 282 tonearm!! After playing with the Sonus and the Audio Technica ATP-12, both of which came close to the JMW-10.5/Ortofn Jubilee combo, I mounted the MAS and set my Grado Woody up on that. Once again this combo SLAMMED, with bass which might in fact be more powerful than the fab JMW/Jubilee combo (and even the high-end experts agree the Jubilee may have the best bass in the business), and which in terms of dynamics is absolutely rivetting, along with the sense of togetherness/gestalt and PRaT. But then I set up the Ortofon M15E Super MM (the leading and first cartridge in the VMS range, though VMS is not in the moniker), which seemed to surpass even the Grado Statement Master for resolution, if not for the Wowie-Zowie Decca-like sense of excitement. In fact, the MAS/M15 combo came closest so far to the JMW/Jubilee combo in terms of detail/resolution/transparency, surpassing even the Mighty RS-A1 Denon DL-103E combo!!! I used a live recording of Carmen MacRae, and only the JMW/Ortofon and MAS/Ortofon M15E/or MAS/Grado managed to resolve the crowd and associated back-stage and stage noises (recorded in a club).

What's truly interesting is that the MAS uses a technique patented by none other than Lenco: the rubber-decoupled counterweight end-stub, though done to a higher and more solid standard than that which came with the Lenco L782 and L75s. Obviously, the whole device is to a higher standard than the Lenco tonearms. Having done some research as to why this arm was so good, I discovered the design was done by the designer of the Linn tonearms, Mr. Ito, whose specialty was most specifically bearings, and the MAS bearings are superb. Ito gave his name the Ittok and the Akito tonearms. Now, these arms are alternately respected and dismissed, and perhaps the MAS tonerarm is a bit of a fortuitous luck, being the result of combining a low-mass (but very stiff and strong arrangement, apparently a sturdy graphite tonearm tube and sturdy/strong plastic headshell) with the Lenco's decoupled counterweight design, the bearings doing the last bit to extract even better detail than the unipivot Sonus, which should in fact be borderline impossible (especially considering the Sonus is rewired with my favourite Cardas/Petra combo, soldered, while the MAS has the original internal wiring and removable headshell, and so should be at a disadvantage)!!

Back when I had tracked down a case of fifty, but in the end I only found and sold a few, but those who have these need to replace the crappy tonearm cable which comes with them and substitute something better, and try quality MMs with them. To reiterate, so far the biggest surprise in vintage tonearms I have experienced are these MAS 282 tonearms!

Next up, the Rega on an Ipe tonearm board (a very heavy exotic wood I'm hoping will surpass my fave walnut and give the Rega a leg up) and the lovely Athena Technologies SP-3 three-way top-of-the-line speakers (but still budget ;-), if unavailable). Have fun all!
"What's truly interesting is that the MAS uses a technique patented by none other than Lenco: the rubber-decoupled counterweight end-stub"
Sorry John, no rubber in Lenco tonearm end-stub, only a piano wire that connects it to the main wand.....

Cheers,
François.
Thanks for your input Francois, it's been a looooonnnggg time since I played with a Lenco tonearm, the only one I ever rewired was back in '92 when I first discovered the Idler, then found my first Mighty Lenco!! That tonearm I also modified by gluing a better headshell in the front, with epoxy-resin (I found one which fit snuggly into the drilled-out end), and via advertising at the back of British audio mags found the address of Technical & General for new armblocks. The end result was quite good as I recall.

So I guess the MAS tonearm is excellent for reasons all its own ;-). On another budget front, I just cleaned up a Sony 1130 integrated, truly a work of engineering art with matched capacitors and so forth, and it came within a hair of matching the top-of-the-line Sony 2000F preamp/TA-3140F combo which is my current reference!! Lots o fpower too for those looking for audiophile sound and Party Punch on a budget!! Weighs a ton. Have fun all, want to check out my Piezo YM-308 MKII next :-).
The MAS 282 sounds like an interesting tonearm. At first I thought John you made a typo and were referring to the ultra rare (read ultra expensive) Micro MAX 282. An arm I once had and now regret selling, it was one of the most dynamic, pure sounding arm I have ever heard and it also has a rubber decoupling to mount the counterweight on the arm tube. I always thought though that the counterweight sagged just a tad, maybe age, maybe design.

Also the Sony PUA-7 and PUA-9 have a similar design and the PUA-7 is a ridiculously good sounding arm for the money, I have not heard the PUA-9 and would be interested to know if anyone else on this thread has heard that arm. Also the Ikeda arms use a rubber (or similar compound) O-ring between counterweight and arm tubes, and probably there are other designs like this out there?

It seems that there is something then to rubber damping and decoupling designs. Almost has one wondering if there are some quick and dirty opportunities to incorporate this methodology on to other arms we like.

Steve in Ottawa
"...It seems that there is something then to rubber damping and decoupling designs. Almost has one wondering if there are some quick and dirty opportunities to incorporate this methodology on to other arms we like..."

Not hard to do, actually! A homebuilt tonearm I made many years ago, had rubber counterweight decoupling. The rear counterweight stub was a piece of 1/4 inch threaded rod, the counterweight itself was glued-together steel washers whose holes cleared the threaded rod. I glued rubber motor isolation mounts from the common Garrard record changers on the ends of the counterweight. Their center holes (sorry...Garrard was British, make that "centre" holes :-) ) just happened to "thread" onto the counterweight stub, so that the counterweight could be rotated on the threads to set it...and so the counterweight was rubber-isolated!

Even the ESL arm from early stereo days, had rubber decoupling of the counterweight.