How to best isolate TT from vibration?


Hi all:

I'm currently using a Systemdek IIX table, which has a floating suspension system. I have it on a Atlantis Reference rack, but have replaced the top shelf with a 18" x 18" x 2" brick paver, and use (8) Vibrapod 4's under the table itself to prevent vibration. I still suffer from some skipping unless I walk ever so softly in my music room, most noticably at the beginning of an LP. I'm looking for input regarding what you fine members consider to be the best, but yet economical, methods of isolating this table and nixing this problem. Thanks,

Jim
musicseller
Since I suggested it, I tried the Ikea Lack side table with my AR turntable last night - similar three point suspension to a Linn. I have hardwood floors not carpeting, but I took some heavy steps in the room last night and the turntable tracked fine. The table was only $12.99 but the shipping was around $20, so if you have an Ikea near you it would be worth the drive. I have the table in dark brown and although it is cheaply made, it doesn't look too bad especially with a turntable on top.
a very good way to isolate hi fi gear is to make a shallow box out of mdf into which you place a bicycle inner tube (inflated) place another piece of 18mm mdf {cut to fit just within the box with the inner tube) on top, make sure everything is level and enjoy!

Okay, this will sound goofy, but it will work.

Step 1 - Go to Home Depot and get them to cut you up a sheet of 1" thick MDF into appropriate sized rectangles. I use 15x18.5, which were the same size as my Target wall shelf. The number of pieces of MDF you use will depend on how you tune this thing later.

Step 2 - Go to the dollar store and buy your self a few packages of those little rubber inflated sportsballs (they look like soccer, basket, and baseballs). You'll need about a dozen (balls, not packages), maybe more depending on how heavy your table is.

Step 3 - Back to Home Depot! You will need 2" PVC plumbing fittings with a flanged end. Get some glue as well.

Step 4 - Glue the flange fittings to a piece of MDF in an even and logical pattern. Make sure you support the middle and the outside edges of the MDF.

Step 5 - With the flange fittings facing down, make an MDF/rubber ball sandwich. you can do this with the balls sitting on top of the flange fittings, and is is easier to assemble, but it sounds better for some reason with the flanges on top and the balls on the surface of the bottom piece of MDF. DO NOT GLUE THE BALLS IN PLACE!

Step 6 - Experiment with the number of pieces of MDF. You may find that more than one piece of MDF works better, or that 3 on top and 2 on the bottom work best, or whatever. Try to listen to each configuration for a couple of days before you switch. This will take a month or two, but if you are patient you will get it right.

This will only work if your table has a good levelling system, otherwise don't try it. Having said that, this setup cured some horrendous vibration problems in my room, and sounds good for very little money; $10-15 for balls, $25 for the MDF, $30-40 for the plumbing fittings.

No, I'm not on drugs.
Esox- this sounds (pun intended) like a diy version of the Gingko Cloud product.
I imagine so. I went with this because different numbers of pieces of MDF worked better with my Roksan Xerxes turntable, and originally the setup was on the floor. The best setup there was to have 5 layers of MDF on top and two layers on the bottom. When I changed to the SME 20/2A, it worked best on a wall stand with a single layer of MDF on top and bottom.

I started off using tennis balls, but they did not sound as good as the inflatable sports balls. I also tried bicycle tubes and a "sandbox" type of setup, but this is by far the most effective. The only drawback is that the balls need to be reinflated once or twice a year. Or you can just go buy a new set for $7.