Here's how I understand it.
Every pivoting tonearm travels in an arc as it moves from the perimeter toward the center of the record. As it arcs, it loses speed on the first half of the arc and gains on the backside. Tonearm designers create a mathematically calculated offset in the form of a bend or angle so as to minimize the effects of the arcing. In order to do this they need a constant effective length so they designate one. It is measured from the pivot point to the stylus tip and on some models can be adjusted by moving the cartridge to or fro in the headshell. This is the overhang adjustment.
Unless you have a replaceable armboard on that turntable, I would not drill a second hole in the plinth as that would be unsightly. Why not investigate available tonearm options to learn which ones can be used in your existing hole. The MMT is decent but you may be able to improve upon the performance it offers without spending a lot of money or defacing your prized new turntable.
Every pivoting tonearm travels in an arc as it moves from the perimeter toward the center of the record. As it arcs, it loses speed on the first half of the arc and gains on the backside. Tonearm designers create a mathematically calculated offset in the form of a bend or angle so as to minimize the effects of the arcing. In order to do this they need a constant effective length so they designate one. It is measured from the pivot point to the stylus tip and on some models can be adjusted by moving the cartridge to or fro in the headshell. This is the overhang adjustment.
Unless you have a replaceable armboard on that turntable, I would not drill a second hole in the plinth as that would be unsightly. Why not investigate available tonearm options to learn which ones can be used in your existing hole. The MMT is decent but you may be able to improve upon the performance it offers without spending a lot of money or defacing your prized new turntable.