New Maplenoll Ariadne owner needing advice

Piedpiper: To be sure I understand: The modification suggested is to replace both the arm tube and tone-arm with balsa , rather than to uncap the arm tube to insert a snugg fitting balsa dowel inside the tube ,itself, then regluing the end cap. Should I replace the arm tube, a Woodcrafter store is close and I recall a dowel department-all types. Getting a dowel turned is the tricky issue. I presume the dowel shound be fine sanded, sealed, painted , lightly sanded (800 grt)and perhaps resealed. P/P I understand the weight & pressure issue. Even with a second pump as Oilman I doubt I could get more than 4-5 PSI, presently I 'm @46 PSI. Readers please feel free to express your comments/ideas.

'Nollers : Following watching Jolie in "Wanted", I stopped at the local WoodCraft Store chatting with the store manager "EJ". We discussed the possibility to convert several metal parts on the Ari' into wood. I infrequently visit this place just scanning over stock for ideas. EJ mentioned that a former employee is a world-class woodworker and analog-head. The guy apparently is into turntables and maybe interested in making a few replacement parts.EJ said he would attempt to hook us up. I looked over a selection of exotic hard woods & dowels ; ideas kept popping into the mind-broth. Nothing firm but also scads of solid brass parts to use as end caps , screws, bolts as well as wood inserts and replacement parts for the air bearing tube and tone-arm. Only time will tell how all of this will "turn" out. Its a good day when I can fuse Jolie and audio-play together.

charlie
sounds interesting. If you use wood, be sure to seal it well. wood will absorb water(from humidity in the room or inthe compressed air) and possibly swell. THe key to the airbearing is the perfect fit between the airtube and arm that justs allows enough airflow to float the arm. if the dowel swells, you may have some issues with fit.

Oilmanmojo: You have highlighted a key question that must be answered in more detail. The alternate is to fill the sleeve with balsa. The tone-arm is different from the perspective that once sealed it should not swell. I have some ideas gleamed from conversations with Bruce Tigpan for completeing the tone-arm. At this point I am not convinced that either my initial or later ideas are better relative to each other. Thinking and a tad of time will help. The key here is what EJ termed "reverse engineering" ... I get it.

Oilmanmojo: As I awoke the medical motto "First Do No Harm", came to mind along with the following;

An alternate route is to apply feather-weight damping compounds developed by GE as mentioned in earlier postings , uncaping the bearing tube, filling the inner space and then recaping.

Or, a complete revision using carbon fiber tubes for the bearing and tone arm (Tks for the idea & materal). As for the tone arm ,the method for internal damping slightly differs: Prior to filling the arm tube a teflon tubeing is centered for the passage of the phono wires(w/exits front & back ) ,light-weight dampner leveled into 70-80% of the arm tube space, back to front. The challenge is of course end cap hardware and the VTA screw shaft, should the design be manitained.

The effective mass of the arm will change ,the "geometry" should be the same. Head-shell weights in different grams will likely be required (ss,lead & brass are options).

Joe Grado mailed his tri-point headshell weights to me years ago. Modified fan weights can be used inconjuction with the Grado Tri-Points, if extra weight is a must. For that, I'll go back to the books for a final answer.

WoodCrafter EJ suggested because the high pressured bearing manifold expells air mixed w/ oil & water vapors , wood is not a first choice for the bearing tube ; all wood swells in time. Filling the factory tube or a carbon redo are options . For the arm tube anything goes, metal, wood or carbon ... Of course, the "math" is important, enought brain goo for now. All the best.