New Maplenoll Ariadne owner needing advice


I have recently purchased a maplenoll ariadne. I have tried to learn a little about the table but find very little information. I know the table was discontinued in the 90's but the little i have found indicated it is a very good table. I am interested to learn if there are any tricks or problems to optimizing this table. As most of you probably know, it is an air bearing platter and tonearm. I plan on putting my zxy airy 3 on the arm once I get it set up.
oilmanmojo
Thanks. If you would be willing to share some details around your motor isolation, i would appreciate it. Since i have a table that is working pretty good, I do want to take this time to modify the signature to capture some of the ideas that have been discussed on this thread. Your motor isolation is one that has not gotten discussed much but seems to be a great modification. I will have to set up an air system with this table but a lot of that is already discussed earlier in the thread.
It's pretty simple. You just need to remove the bolts that hold the lead motor mount plate and create some sort of mounting for it that can be positioned at the correct height to accommodate the belt going over the plinth and under the platter, assuming that your pulley is designed to work with the subplatter rather than the platter itself. If it is the higher speed motor that interfaces with the platter rather than the subplatter then it is easier. In either case you must find or make a much longer belt and possibly a different pulley to accommodate it. I use a thread but have heard good things about audio tape. Either one requires turning a new pulley, which I've done on my lathe. Obviously getting the size exactly right is critical for speed accuracy unless you have a speed controler. I'll be constructing such a motor mount soon for Crem1.
thanks,It appears pretty simple. I am assuming that tension is set by how far away you put your motor from the table. How does the thread work compared to the standard rubber belt?
yes. It helps to have a very heavy bottom on the mount. I started using 3 large brass cones and then when I went with the mail tube casing I inserted a large chunk of steel to be eventually replaced with lead shot. The string is more rigid than the rubber belt but I couldn't do a direct comparison seeing as the repositioning of the motor necessitated using a belt that was far longer than any rubber one I've been able to find. I've considered getting one of AJ Conti's precision ground super thin rubber belts from Basis to try it. He swears by them, in contrast to the common wisdom that rubber belts are the work of the devil. The large lead platter should take care of some of the various issues at stake.
Oilmanmojo: Sorry to take so long to reply. My 'Noll is near completion . Piedpiper and I have discussed options on a custom motor mount build .

A learning curve bump. I did purchase a complete outboard motor unit in excellent condition only to learn:

1. Size does matter . Its a challenge if the motor unit is not exactly the right height via the platter height for a belt to wrap around the platter, or to utilize in the space between the top plate bearing & bottom of the platter for belt placement. And,that's besides determining between a pre-made or home-made type belt & pully.
2. Stability is dependent on motor's ability to spin that lead slug ; unfortunately , the outboard motor unit I purchased could not "pull" that much weight. There's a reason the hurst motor was used.

Oilman, I did make an effort to have a ceramic center pin made, only to find no one interested in developing them for such a small market. I do have a few plastic center pins made years ago; one could serve as a template or a replacement. That center pin is the weakest part of our tables. Feel free to e/m or call , as you choose.