Should I Brush My Cartridge After Each Use?

Hadn't thought of the adhesive gluing the stylus onto the cantelever. I had thought of migration of solvent up the cantelever to the suspension. Doesn't seem to be a problem for either though.

Ultrakaz,

Thanks for the tip on the KOS. I don't know if smaller pores would clean better, but they might reduce the risk of snagging the stylus.

Piedpiper,

We're on the same page re: the lazy, hazy, crazy Roy. Wire doesn't matter. VTA/SRA changes aren't audible. Scraping dirt against a plastic groovewall with a diamond chisel at hundreds of psi will magically clean the groove without damaging the plastic. As you said, whatever floats your boat.

Two seconds of ME (or KOS) after each side is enough to prevent all buildup, but it's nowhere near abrasive enough to damage a diamond - as Swampwalker pointed out. In fact, if a stylus is neglected and the buildup gets thick/stubborn enough, the ME won't even remove that.

Just last week I saved a ZYX UNIverse that hadn't been cleaned in a year. It sounded horrible and the owner was worried the cartridge was toast. The ME wasn't aggressive enough to remove all the baked on crud so I resorted to Linn's trick, a few delicate swipes with a sliver of 2,000 grit silicone carbide paper. Voila! Stylus looks like new, cartridge sounds like new.

As Jeff Jones said, you do what you have to do. For emergency rehabs a little tough love Linn style works wonders, and so does single malt!

Do I brush the cart or my teeth with the single malt????

Hi folks,

So the Magic "Green" Linn paper has always bothered me (I know it works - I don't dispute that in the slightest; I've used it for years in an emergency capacity, and have seen the before and after results under a scope).

How can the relatively flat surface profile of a piece of 2000-grit sandpaper possibly clean a chisel-shaped sliver of diamond? While I can see this working well on a spherical or elliptical stylus profile, I have a much harder time wrapping my head around how any of the thin, tapering profiles (line-contact et al) can be so well-cleaned by the green paper - after all, aren't we merely grazing the very tip of the stylus? It is not as if we were wrapping the sandpaper around the diamond itself, ala a good shoe-shine. While I tend to believe the surface of the abrasive material deforms slightly under pressure, I don't think it does so enough to catch the "sides" of the diamond itself (maybe I'm wrong). Yet, the diamond comes out looking all spiffy and new, with the baked-on gunk that accumulates at the cantelever/stylus bonding point completely expunged....Any thoughts on this?