Peter,
Nick's components are essentially neutral, neither warm and fuzzy nor cool and analytical. Of course like any tube component you can easily make them a little (or a lot) warmer simply by switching tubes.
It's easy to add warmth to a system. In addition to tubes, there are warm sounding interconnects, speaker cables, cartridges, turntable belts and tweaks of every description.
It's not so easy to remove warmth (or any coloration) if it's inherent in a major component. I could make my system sound warmer in a hundred ways, many of them quick, inexpensive and easily reversible. (If I used an Amazon turntable belt instead of my mylar tape I'd add warmth, to name an example you can look at.) But to make an inherently warm component sound natural, neutral and transparent usually requires replacing it.
I guees I'm just saying, be careful not to go too far. High end analog doesn't require added warmth to avoid digital nastiness. Go warm only if you're sure that's what you want.
Nick's components are essentially neutral, neither warm and fuzzy nor cool and analytical. Of course like any tube component you can easily make them a little (or a lot) warmer simply by switching tubes.
It's easy to add warmth to a system. In addition to tubes, there are warm sounding interconnects, speaker cables, cartridges, turntable belts and tweaks of every description.
It's not so easy to remove warmth (or any coloration) if it's inherent in a major component. I could make my system sound warmer in a hundred ways, many of them quick, inexpensive and easily reversible. (If I used an Amazon turntable belt instead of my mylar tape I'd add warmth, to name an example you can look at.) But to make an inherently warm component sound natural, neutral and transparent usually requires replacing it.
I guees I'm just saying, be careful not to go too far. High end analog doesn't require added warmth to avoid digital nastiness. Go warm only if you're sure that's what you want.