zyx universe cartr.- ideal weight -ideal vta ,


Dear analogue friends , i want your assistance to regulate my zyx universe cartr.
I use conquerror tonearm and i would know the ideal tested cartr.weight -actually i tried 1,8 and 1,9 gr with good results, other question is if the arm must be completly parallel to the disk or slightly up for optimum performance.
comaris
Thanks for the common sense post, Dan - as usual. You described what we're seeking to reproduce very well. It's wise to point out that not everyone shares the same priorities.

If your interests don't gravitate toward the sound of acoustic instruments and skilled vocalists presented without electronic intervention, then this degree of craziness may not repay the time and effort. If you don't give a %@#&! about the sound of a three-manual harpsichord vs. a single-string clavichord or whether Emma Kirkby sounds as lifelike as possible, forget most of the above!

Aside from the time it takes, playing as we do involves some risk to your vinyl. As Mothra suggested, playing so close to the mistracking point could mean playing below it the next time the weather changes. We monitor VTF constantly (not with a scale, by ear) and it's become second nature just out of habit. If that would drive you nuts then it isn't worth the bother.

In that case (for a ZYX) I'd suggest finding the mistracking point (definitely useful info to know) and then playing .10 - .15g above that in warmer weather, .15 - .20g above in cold/dry weather. That would work as a virtually set-and-forget method for any ZYX we've used.
For those who are truly into squeezing the abs most from any "really high res" set-up,I believe one's house lines must be scrutinized "way" more than previously thought!!Not general conditioning.
There are those,here,who originally gave me the idea(from looking at each individual's set-up approaches,but I tried to go a tad further).This started with a lightening strike to my home last year!Don't fret,I benefited greatly from this,in the long run!!
If one goes to the length of "regenerating and running their A/C in fully balanced configuration"(whole system),these little variables we are speaking about(VTF/VTA/Antiskate and a host of other bits and pieces) come into the foreground in "far" greater relief!This is absolutely and immediately obvious,if all else has been correctly addressed!The most subtle of voicings/shadings that we can become adept at playing around with really show up,if one comes around to this "total regeneration/fully balanced" A/C connection for one's set-up.
A close friend/serious hobbyist recently bought my sales pitch,here,and was blown away by the additional detail and harmonic shadings he was able to get from his Magico Mini/Phantom/Orpheus rig,which was not too shabby in the first place.
Don't take my word at face value!Anyone can try a free loaner from The Cable Company,for only the shipping cost.What can be bad?
Best, to most-:)
Didn't work for me Doug!
Whilst your methodology sounds very convincing, I tried it on my Raven AC with Hadcock GH228 and it failed.
I have had the ZYX UNIverse for 1 year and thought I was tracking it at 1.9gm until I bought a digital gauge which showed I was tracking at 2.4gm.
Mounted the same Hadcock on the Raven AC a month ago and by following Arthur Salvatore's method of VTF, I found it sounded best at 2.33gm.
I tried your method and played the RCA Reiner Pines of Rome with the climactic strings at the end (close to spindle, max tracking error?).
The strings sound just as horrible at 1.5gm, 1.7gm and 1.9gm.
I couldn't discern what the 'mistracking' you describe actually SOUNDS like?

It then dawned on me why Arthur's methodology was better than yours?.........you approach it from the point of view of 'finding the BAD sound and moving up slightly from that?'
Arthur relies on finding the GOOD sound and building on that....see his method attached below.
I actually found that I heard none of your aural descriptions on HF and bass when I followed your methodology but I found a HUGE difference in sound quality, depth and staging when I used Arthur's.
The fact that I'm tracking much higher than you and apparently the other users here is a little worrying?.....but perhaps it's all system dependent?
I'm getting the Continuum Copperhead this week together with the Dynavector DV1s and I get my Schroeder Ref arm in a month so I'll be able to mount the ZYX in both to compare it to the Hadcock.
Philosophically I prefer Arthur's 'Glass half full' method to your 'glass half empty'?.....sorry.

A Vertical Tracking Force (VTF) Procedure

Here's a simple, four-step procedure that anyone can use if they have an accurate digital gauge and a tonearm with fine and repeatable VTF adjustability.

Step 1. Start with the VTF at the lowest recommended setting and increase it .1 grams at a time. The sonics will get better each time, but when they inevitably deteriorate, stop. All that's relevant now are the last three .1 gram positions. You are now "in the ballpark".

Step 2. Of the three relevant .1 gram positions from Step One, choose the middle position as the "ballpark", but reduce the ballpark VTF by .05 grams. Then go back up .05 grams per step until the sonics deteriorate, then stop.

Step 3. If there are three positions in Step Two, then the middle one is the new "ballpark". If there are only two positions from Step Two, then it's the lower one. This time go down only .02 grams from the new ballpark and then increase it the same amount until you hear a deterioration. The last position before the deterioration is usually the optimized setting. However...

Step 4. For fine tuning, and also verification, the position which sounded best in Step 3 should be compared with positions .01 grams both above and below it. Even ultra-fine tuning can now be attempted, if you want to become fanatical about it.
Hmm,HALCRO! Interesting post!!
Here is why I would opt for Doug's thoughts,even though you seem to have a good arguement(in the best sense,btw)....Too many folks are WAY too happy!WAY to easily!!They SELDOM go beyond the "first" good sound setting!....Reason(aside from the confidence of experience,which you seem to clearly have)?We have had so many unsatisfactory results over the years,as hobbyists,and especially if we have access to a goodly amount of "correct" sounding set-ups(which tend to motivate us to want "more" from what we have),at various friends' homes(I'm lucky/unlucky here,btw),that when we "GO" for anything new,we are usually pulled into being far too easily satisfied.Even if there is a bit "more" lurking around the corner.We just stop looking,and listening critically enough,when we get to the "it sounds good to me/us" part!
This goes doubley for fussy cartridges!Especially if one is active in going through equipment changes,or fotzes around alot to satisfy the "different" tastes of the "pickiest" friends,when they come over.(I have friends so eager to please certain members of our group,that they have completely re-voiced an already perfect set-up,just to make someone happy...which seldom happened,btw).
I,personally(just my own point of view,and taste)like to find the "first" setting where I am beginning to hear a subtle loss of timbre and harmonic warmth.To me,with my own arm(old as of last Saturday),this is clearly heard as a slight resonant characteristic.Unless you actually "own" my set-up,it is too easy to think this resonant characteristic is something else.I have been accused of this PLENTY,but I know my stuff way too well.Thank God,or my friends would drive me from this hobby!!I then go up,in VTF from there,at .01 gm increments.It doesn't take long to ultimately "know" the exact setting,from there,and I can "then" be quite secure when my own "carnivorous" friends come over...to criticise,as "always"!Of course you are speaking to a different cartridge and arm(the arm I am very familiar with,but was unlucky with),but the general procedure should be fairly universal.No?
I DO have a nice surprise waiting for the next session.-:)
Just my own thoughts,and nothing is set in stone,especially when I make a claim,or five. -:)
Best.
I'm sure the Hadcock is a fine arm, but it's not going to behave the same as a gimbal bearing arm. There is not really much difference between the two methods. Because one method may work better for a particular setup than the other does not invalidate the other method.