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setting azimuth on VPI turntables

I purchased a VPI Scoutmaster a few weeks ago, being unenthusiatic over the sound, I was considering selling up until last night.

I had been over cartridge setup for this table a number of times, getting overhang, alignment, azimuth, VTF, and VTA just right. Still, things were not sounding all that good.

I had previously purchased the Fremer DVD so I did know about setting up this table optimally. I surmised the rod method of setting azimuth, as instructed in the VPI manual, was not optimal and part of the culprit in non-involving sound.

I finally got around to purchasing a DMM with a low enough AC voltage scale the other day. After much trial and error I finally got a crosstalk differential of less than 1%, a miracle with this setup. Setting azimuth on this table is a real PITA, everytime I got azimuth within specs, VTF went out of balance.

Eventually I got it right, the payoff in sound was way big time! Center image is now 'locked in', way more solid and dimensional. Images are also now floating free of the physical speaker, spaciousness, air in spades, a much more organic sound.

Having heard some complain about this table's uninvolving nature and lack of musicality prompted me to post this thread. I suspect many have not had their table set up correctly, because I certainly heard what they were talking about prior to getting azimuth 'locked in'. VPI owners, it is absolutely necessary to set azimuth electronically, the rod method in not nearly good enough! Get a proper DMM or get someone knowledgable to set up your table, you just might be in for a big surprise!

Vinyl setup:
VPI Scoutmaster, non-signature, Valhalla wired arm wand in near future
Dynavector 20XL
Cayin Phono One
DIY wall shelf using 3" thick maple
Bright Star Big Rock, going to try Gingko 11 in near future
SDS and ring clamp coming soon
sns
bacpacr
5 posts
 
Rsrex, I agree with your point. This makes a good starting point for what ever method. The best method as you stated is using a test record with a true RMS meter. Either at the speaker posts or better yet, the phono pre-amp. Some people do not have the patience or want to spend the money on the gear to check all possible settings. This is the close enough for goverment work mentality for some people.
Secondly, As much as some cartridges cost, they should be level.
sns OP
3,190 posts
 

Rsrex, yes, this is the point I was trying to make when speaking of variability in manufacturing tolerances. The DMM method is the only method that accounts for all those possible deviations.

As for those who think this is a big hassle. What is the hassle of having a DMM and learning how to use it. If you consider this a hassle, you will be one frustrated audiophile in time. This hassle pales in comparison to many others I've faced through the years. Once you've used the DMM method a few times it becomes much easier, I correctly set azimuth for a Valhalla wired tonearm in about 15 minutes the other night.
radrog
157 posts
 
If you live in Michigan come on over.....
sns OP
3,190 posts
 
Radrog, in fact I do live in Michigan, near Ann Arbor. Send me an email if you're serious. Scott
viper_z
95 posts
 
Hmm...I tried the DMM method for the first time. I bought the $40.00 Analogue Productions Test LP. I first played the stereo mode 1kHz tone and turned my volume up so that the output voltage from my amp reads about 4V on both side.

Then I played the left 1kHz tone and measure the right output voltage, I got very unstable reading between 0.02 to 0.08V.

I then played the right 1kHz tone and measure the left output voltage, I got between 0.22 to 0.3V.

So now I turn the tonearm weight in one direction to try to get my left output voltage to fall below 0.1V. But the funny thing is, even when I turned all the way to the extreme position, the left still measure between 0.17 to 0.26V. There's no way I can get it to the same small reading as my right output.

So does this means my cartridge is faulty or what?
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