Hi, Dsa,
What headshell did you use to mount the OM5 to the Technics? I suspect my Sumiko headshell has a lot to do with getting a good energy transfer from the Denon DL-160. Conversely, my OM10 is mounted on a $15 Stanton.
In the USA, upgrading the Technics is a lot less money, so it skews my perspective on what's the best way to go. KAB does a rewire for $169 and the fluid damper is $150, for a total of $319 instead of $550. But if you could get a good rewire done locally, the fluid damper, weighing as little as it doesn, shouldn't cost a lot in shipping.
I've never heard an Origin Live Silver, but if I were going to use the OL armboard, the Silver is probably the tonearm I'd go for. The reason is that the base model RB250 and RB300, while good values, don't reach their potential until they get $400-500 in upgrades--better stub and armweight with lowered center of gravity, arm rewire, stripped powder coating, and drilled holes or slots cut into armwand to better control resonances.
By the time you get an OL-1 with the works, it's $800, and it still has the original bearings, which according to some, are not so great.
For another $200 the Silver has all the OL-1 mods plus better bearings and (I think) a few other upgrades. I'd also make sure that whatever arm I upgraded to would have adjustable VTA.
Still, the difference in how the OM5 sounded between the Project and the Technics may not be because of the tonearm per se. It could be platforming and vibration isolation, which is the Technics' weakness. Some brass cones under the turntable seated on a thick butcher block supported by Vibrapods, Isoblocks, or sorobothane feet lower the noise floor, add a lot of inner detail, and improve imaging and soundstage noticeably. And it's a cheap fix.
What headshell did you use to mount the OM5 to the Technics? I suspect my Sumiko headshell has a lot to do with getting a good energy transfer from the Denon DL-160. Conversely, my OM10 is mounted on a $15 Stanton.
In the USA, upgrading the Technics is a lot less money, so it skews my perspective on what's the best way to go. KAB does a rewire for $169 and the fluid damper is $150, for a total of $319 instead of $550. But if you could get a good rewire done locally, the fluid damper, weighing as little as it doesn, shouldn't cost a lot in shipping.
I've never heard an Origin Live Silver, but if I were going to use the OL armboard, the Silver is probably the tonearm I'd go for. The reason is that the base model RB250 and RB300, while good values, don't reach their potential until they get $400-500 in upgrades--better stub and armweight with lowered center of gravity, arm rewire, stripped powder coating, and drilled holes or slots cut into armwand to better control resonances.
By the time you get an OL-1 with the works, it's $800, and it still has the original bearings, which according to some, are not so great.
For another $200 the Silver has all the OL-1 mods plus better bearings and (I think) a few other upgrades. I'd also make sure that whatever arm I upgraded to would have adjustable VTA.
Still, the difference in how the OM5 sounded between the Project and the Technics may not be because of the tonearm per se. It could be platforming and vibration isolation, which is the Technics' weakness. Some brass cones under the turntable seated on a thick butcher block supported by Vibrapods, Isoblocks, or sorobothane feet lower the noise floor, add a lot of inner detail, and improve imaging and soundstage noticeably. And it's a cheap fix.