VTA adjustment for VPI 10.5 tonearm

VTA is not as important as proper VTF. Make the arm horizontal first. I do this by taking an index card, folding it exactly in half so that the blue lines are horizontal. I now have a tent/guage..so that if I get way down to avoid parralax errors, I can make sure the arm is absolutely horizontal. I know it's a pain to continually adjust the 10.5i for VTF, however, suck it up and there will be a magic downward force that will be better than any other. Once you have the best possible sound from VTF (make sure that azimuth is set correctly..if you are unsure ask) then you can fool around with VTA. I found for my cartridge, it should just be very slightly down in the back. Also, experiment with damping. Just use 1 or 2 drops of the oil at a time. The sound will get better and better, and then one more drop, and it gets a bit worse. Use a toothpick or Q-tip and take out that drop. Also, the rim drive should make contact on the silver "land" portion of the platter. Do you have the soft rubber feet for the motor assembly?... Do not use the metal or hard rubber feet.

oops - forgot something on my post above.... For the best sound don't install/use the anti-skate gizmo.

Here I am again....by the way...85, 60,42, means nothing. All those figures are relative to your particular setup. When you spin the dial around 360 degrees you are back to the same number, but with a different VTA.

Keep in mind when measuring VTA on the 10.5i that the arm tube is tapered, so when you measure by eye using a straight edge, if it looks level it could be slightly raised at the back of the arm. I just set at level or slightly down for a 180 g. record and forget it.

Mike

I agree with Stringreen. Set VTF first and do that with the arm as close to level as possible. The index card trick makes it easier to judge this with the taperred arm. Depending on what scale you use, you'll likely have to raise the arm for this measurement to have the arm level. I f you don't have the arm level, your VTF reading could be off by as much as .3 grams or more. This is the equivalent of measuring VTF at the level of the record(as the expensive Wally scale does)provided you then set the arm level with the record again when you're done. Once the arm is level with the record, lower VTA by 5 at a time until you find the spot you like.
Stringreen is probably right about the soft feet and anti scate as well but I'm still messing around with those on my SSM ref. The rim drive seems to work best with very light conact with the super platter. Not much pressure is needed. Mike at VPI told me if the platter spins a little longer than the flywheel on shut off that's about the right amount of contact. Also, where the platter runs the fastest is another indication that contact pressure is good. The drive belt does need to be in the "land" between the grooves in the metal area and probably best as close to the middle of this metal area as possible. Luckily, raising and leveling is easier with the mini feet than the older cone feet. Probably the mini foot's best selling point in my opinion.