SP10 Mk II vs Mk III

I took the motor out before. It's not hard to do at all. The motor is attached to a ribbon cable that is detachable to the pcb inside the chassis. One can get a matching ribbon cable connector and extend the cable and you can make the motor independent of the chassis. Obviously you will lose the function of the strobe light and magnetic brake. You will end up with a three piece monster: plinth for the motor, original chassis housing all the electronics for speed and on/off switching, and finally the power supply. It would look as elegant as the two piece combo but I firmly believe that's the ultimate. If you are savvy enough with electronics, you can put all the circuit boards in a customized enclosure or an amp chassis with switches.

Correction: The three piece monster will NOT look as elegant as the tradition setup.

the plan for the Steve Dobbins plinth for my Mk3 will be to remove the motor/platter from the Technics case. according to Steve; who has done a few of these Mk3's 'nude'; is that it further separates the Mk3 beyond the Mk2. since the Mk3 has quite a bit more torque than the Mk2, the casework is under much more stress, and limits control of resonance. directly attaching the motor to Steve's plinth design pays definite benefits. i did briefly hear Steve's own Mk3 with this design back in September in his room and it did sound wonderful.....but it was a very brief listen and i had just driven 500 miles....

in any case i am taking Steve's word for this and going 'nude' (without the casework) on the Mk3.

i do like the look of the stock Technics casework and how it integrates into my Mk2 plinth and how other Mk2 and Mk3 designs look with the case; such as Albert's.....compared to the 'nude' look. Steve is reworking his design from an aesthetic perspective for his next round of 'nude' Mk3's.

on a related note; i have put my Mk2 up for sale as those funds will pay for Steve's work on the Mk3 (and keep SWMBO happy). so i will not have both the Mk2 and Mk3 at the same time. i can still 'guess' later about how they compare but that is the best i will be able to do.

All you'd need to do would be to craft a top cover for the tray of parts that lies underneath in the stock unit. Could conceivably be done without any fancy new electronics. Or could it? Albert, did you think of that?

In theory removing the motor and installing in a more secure mounting is a good idea. Maybe I'll do that in the future. Right now I have the best sound I've ever had and with my preamp being upgraded and two new MC cartridges breaking in, I'm up to my neck in testing.

Any update on new plinth designs or set ups in this thread?

The idea of removing the motor and installing separately from the stock chassis makes sense to me and I am more and more tempted to do that by the day. Now, I just need a way to cut a slate...