Antiskating .... The last analog secret

Here is a method for setting Anti-Skate.This is of interest here I think."Anti skate is best set visually, not with the dial on the tonearm. This because of the large variation in groove friction developed by different stylus shapes and VTA settings. Watch the cantilever very carefully from the front of the headshell (use strong light) as you lower the stylus into a groove in the middle of the first band on the record. If the cantilever deflects to the right when the stylus hits the groove, increase the antiskate until the cantilever remains in the same position (relative to the front of the cartridge body) in or out of the groove. (If it deflects to the left, reduce the anti skate force.)It takes a little practice, but gets you very close to perfect with the rest easy to do by ear."

Stringgreen i agree with your post above. Thats why i am very happy with the lever tied up on my Triplaner. The thread slips through the hole in the lever with out any problems. I am getting increased holograph sounds with much more upper frequency delivery with absolutely no distortion or surface noise. I have my Universe mounted all the way out on the shell using my Wally Universal for setup. I am getting more effective length this way which is helping the need for AS.

Going from my old VPI 10.5 which had no active AS incorporated to Triplaner which has is kind of backwards. 10.5 could not come close to tracking like Triplaner yet Triplaner without AS is a tracking wonder not distorting in the lest bit. And as we all know the supplied weight is almost 5 grams i believe. When i was experimenting with AS i used brass washers and nuts no where near the weight of the stock TP weight. This is one of the hands on things with vinyl playback that i love. Cant get this kind of action playing digital thats for sure.

>>12-22-08: Stringreen
I have found that not only is correct anti-skate an illusive quest<<

I've heard it described as elusive, nebulous, imprecise, and inexact but never illusive.

Interesting concept though.

Stltrains...I really don't know what you mean when you say that your Triplanar tracks better than a 10.5. I have no trouble in tracking at all. SSSS's are clean and clear, soloists are dead center, speakers disappear, etc. Perhaps your previous arm was not set up correctly. I used a Mint which I found to be better than the VPI template.

Stefanl,

Your method seems much like Nsgarch's. As he mentioned, the higher the compliance of the cartridge, the better it works.

I would add that this method works best for arm/cartridge combinations which need a fair amount of AS. As one approaches zero AS the effects become less visible.

Both the visible deflection technique and the "start with AS at zero" technique only get you in the ballpark of course. As we all know and have said, fine tuning by ear is required no matter how you start.

Conclusion: for ballparking AS...
- if an arm/cart combo is known to prefer a fair amount of AS, the visible deflection technique may put you in the ballpark quickly
- if an arm/cart combo is known to prefer very little or no AS, starting at zero is likely to be quickest.

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Stltrains,

I'm using a thinner fishing line than stock, so mine may resonate differently. I hadn't bothered tieing/propping the dogleg up, but after your report I'll try it. Thanks for the tip.

Interesting that your Wally Universal puts the UNIverse all the way out in the slots. So does my Mint protractor, and the greater eff. length should indeed have the benefit you described. Not only do Wally and Yip make the two most precise protractors, they even agree. This must be an analog first.

Fully agree on the tracking ability of the TriPlanar, truly superb.