Vintage Denon Direct Drive Turntable

Thanks for the reply Lewm. I am based in the UK (Wales) where the world's finest slate comes from (apparently) but it's still very expensive here. Hopefully I can source a decent fireplace plinth or something of similar size. I have a local stone mason who specilises in headstones, so he can help with finishing, just need to find someone to cut the holes.

I have inverted the plinth onto an A2 sheet of paper and traced the cut-outs for the motor unit and tonearm. How are you intending on securing your chassis and tonearm to the slate exactly? I was thinking of perhaps some bore holes with an m5 cabinet insert secured/glued inside.

Please post some images of your slate plinth when you are ready.

Treehugga, I don't know what the "world's finest slate" is. I did see many months ago a long drawn out argument between Jonathan Weiss of OMA and the Slate Deck guy in the UK, over whose slate was "finer". OMA use Pennsylvania slate; I am told by Vermont slate guys that VT slate is actually "harder" and more dense than PA slate, but I selected PA slate, because others have had great success with it. After all, the real question is what slate is best for a plinth. IMO, the best slate is NOT likely to be the hardest, densest, type. I will leave it at that.

I am/was planning to fasten the DP80 into the slate using the same three screw-holes provided for fastening it to the DK300. How to do this is very crucial to the outcome, because good coupling between the chassis and plinth is essential. If I work up the courage, I may drill additional holes in the DP80 chassis to allow use of more than 3 fasteners. The other potential problem is that those holes are perilously close to the edge of the cut-out needed for the chassis to fit. I fear that the slate will crumble or crack during drilling. I am going to try to get a consultation on that problem from an experienced slate worker, before doing any hole-drilling.

My 'finest slate' line was written in jest, it's just a marketing gimmick in my opinion, and I can no-way afford Slatedeck's prices anyway. Yes I agree that the fastening holes are very close to the inner edge of the cutout, and this is a concern, it's certainly a job for a pro.

The person who sold me the DP80 is a dealer in all things japanese dd and he told me that the 80 has a sapphire bearing which is superior to that employed on the SP10mk2. I have the original manual and what looks like a press pack type thing, but it still gives little away in terms of detailed spec for this deck, it really is a somewhat closed book, and that has probably kept the interest in this fine deck to a minimium compared to the SP10.

I was interested in the torque measurements between the DP80 and sp10mk2, but I cannot find anything, what I do know is it is a great deal higher than the SL1210, it takes a fair bit of finger pressure on the platter rim to register on the strobe.

If you know that the Denon DP80 bearing is sapphire, then you know more than I was ever able to find on the subject, or anyone else here. Thanks. I am going to try to get to visit a slate cutter on Friday. (He has a CNC machine and is just getting into the business of cutting slate.) I've had one local water-jet guy back out of the job, because he was afraid of damaging my slab.

Based on the literature supplied by the respective companies, I would expect that the SP10MKII motor has more torque than does the DP80 motor. In their blurb, Denon imply that there is an ideal amount of torque, in their opinion, i.e., too much can be a problem, but they don't elaborate on the subject. Their given numbers are lower than are those of Technics.

Dear Treehugga: I don't have any comparison measures on torque between the DP-80 and SP-10-MK2 but playing both it seems to me that the torque in the Tehnics is higher and this makes me sense because the SP-10MK2 was designed for studio/radio use where one of its needs was a very fast TT start and stop too.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.