Technics SP-10 TT motor capacitors?

Dear Strathorncat: Thank you for the info and yes I agree that it would be an injustice to not take care about.

My questions are mainly because my mind SP-10s whole project that I posted and I want to know if it will be worth the tremendous effort that could take the project, like I say is almost a re-design and build an almost new TT : sounds easy but it is not.

Anyway I think that this kind of dialog between so many Sp-10 lovers are really learning and enrich our own targets on the subject.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.

Well said, and I look forward to learning more. I'm just getting started with my table. Thanks!

Raul, I think you have the completely wrong idea in this rare case. For me, the reason to change the electrolytic caps in ANY device that has been sitting on a shelf for 20 years is simply to avoid a failure that could damage other, much more irreplaceable parts, NOT to make the turntable "sound" better in any way. If you read what I wrote, I did say that for a unit that has been in constant or intermittent service all along, probably this is less of a risk. Further, forget what I may think, Bill Thalmann agreed. He spends his days fixing broken electronics. Also, he did not solicit the work; he is snowed under with repair jobs. He had/has no ulterior motive whatever.

Having vented on that subject, I admit there ARE some sp10 users who think it is necessary to install Black Gate electrolytics in the PS, for reasons you suggest. I used Panasonics that cost less than a buck apiece in most cases.

Strathorncat, Sounds like you know how to read a schematic and have an SP10 service manual. You will therefore know or be able to see that the external PS is far from "state of the art", even for 1980. I think this means that Technics built it as good as it had to be for the job it has to do: supply 5V and 32.5V regulated voltages and unregulated 140V to the main circuits built into the chassis. If one were really a zealot, one could build a "better" outboard supply, with better more modern regulators, a reguated 140V supply, etc. I doubt it would make much difference. Still...... I think about it once in a while. This falls far short of externalizing all the in-board circuitry as well, which I would be very reluctant to do.

Sure. I can see some value in that. But, that's a ways down the road for me. I just fell into my sp-10 and got an extra power supply off ebay and recapped both, so I hope to not have to worry about DC voltages for a while. I did notice that it was nothing special. I figure I'll get the deck ready to spin and start playing with plinth's, arms and cartridges. I'm "turnin' knobs" in the rest of my system, as well. Got lot's of low hanging fruit to benefit from.

I do wonder about one thing, however. Currently, I have a Grace 840F tonearm with a Grado Ref. Sonata and I get a bit of "the" hum. I'm wondering if there might be an easy way to shield/ground the motor/platter better within the deck. I've read that it's most likely due to the cartridge, but just thinking, since I'm about to crack it open anyway...

Thanks