Music Hall MMF 7.1...cartridge options?


I’m wanting to return to spinning some vinyl after a 20-some year hiatus from an analog source in my system. I’m finding some attractive deals on the Music Hall MMF 7.1 and as a ‘re-entry’ table it fits my budget. I’d like some feed back on a couple of things: (1) general comments the 7.1 and (2) the 7.1 is offered with a cartridge…some ads say the Goldring Eroica H (MC) or the Goldring GL-2400 (MM)…what’s the difference? Or, should I get the table without a cartridge…and then what cartridge would be a good fit? I prefer to buy new…if the vinyl bug really sticks I can sell the newer table and upgrade…or not. Thanks in advance!
128x128mdrummer01
Hi, M,

I think you'll really enjoy your new turntable and the Goldring 2400. The Pro-Ject arm's biggest flaw I think is the tonearm mounting post design. It's not a very good fit and subject to misalignment (off-vertical) when you adjust height for SRA. As for cartridges, I've been running a Dynavector DV-20XL cartridge for the past year and it sounds great with the mmf-7. It was a lot of money (for me) to spend on a cartridge but it was worth it. It does involve changing out the stock counterweight for a heavyweight (120g) counterweight, available at http://www.musicdirect.com/product/73925.

I found specs for the Belles 28A and noticed that it has settings for a moving coil cartridge (including variable adjustments in impedance/resistance loading, nice!) but the gain doesn't look right; 26 dB of gain isn't much, unless they figure you'd be using a step-up transformer/headamp with it. I run my 20XL with 50 dB of gain and it seems to perform best with resistance loadings below 100 Ohms. (Based on my experience and numerous threads about this cartridge.) I run mine at 70 Ohms now (started out at 44 Ohms) and it sounds very nice.

I haven't heard the Dynavector 10x5 so can't compare the two, but if you can wait to upgrade cartridges and you can accomodate a LOMC with 0.3 mV of output and 100 or less Ohms resistance, then the extra $300 to get a 20XL might be something to consider. I'd just play the Goldring 2400 for a while and get to know the sound of your system with the new 'table and cartridge. Then you'll have a better idea of what you like and dislike about the 2400 for comparison with other cartridges.

Have fun!
Tom

PS: Another LOMC cartridge to consider is the AT33PTG, which I also like a lot, but I'll note a couple cautions: Namely, it's not a U.S.A. warranted product and it has a tiny stylus that is not easy to see for alignment. That aside, it's a great cartridge for the money.
I'm just registered to share my expirience. I've just changed preinstalled Goldring Eroica H cartridge and enjoy my MMF 7.1 table after a year of non-listening (because of very disgusting sound)

I must say that Goldring Eroica H preinstalled cartridge has no sound at all, when it is compared to Sumiko Blue Point Special Evo III. It's absolutely gorgeous cartridge!!!. Fantastic sound. It took me about 1 hour to replace cartridges.

I wrote a little instruction here (to help the beginners):
I. Leads are very hard to pull off.
II You should retighten leads before get them on the new cartridge, but be carefull with wires! Wire colors from tonearm match pin colors on Sumiko cartridge.
III When you will take off Eroica, it's nuts tend to stick to the cartridge (because of the magnet) - in case if you would think you've lost them.
I need to say that Sumiko cartridge doesn't require any nuts - it has threads in installation plate.
Also I must add that Sumiko cartridge doesn't have a cap, but belive me - it's not very important thing.
IV You should use protractor from tonearm (supplied with turntable) to align the cartridge and digital scale to adjust tracking weight (2,0g) Also you will need to set up VTA - this can be tricky. You should look in the bottom round groove behind tonearm. You will find there two holes with hex screws inside, but to get in there you will need an Allen hex key with shortened end (supplied with turntable). It's made like this because holes are the same level as a bottom line of the groove (for some unknown reason). You should put on your mat and vinyl disk of typical thickness. Then you should set a level of tonearm spindle so printed horizontal line will be parallel to vinyl (not bottom line, because it's conical). When you will finish, tighten the screws (without excess force).
V Last thing - set impedance to 47kOhms and capacitance to 200pF - this parameter is very crucial, otherwise you will get high-pitched squeal sound.
VI Don't forget to put back antiscate weight and ENJOY!!
A little notice - in previous post I made a little mistake - you should adjust VTA so that cartridge upper plate should be parallel to recording, not tonarm horizontal line.