VPI JMW setup

The "true" best way is to set it electronically. There is a computer program and you can dynamically adjust it. Or you use voltage meters to minimize cross-talk. But the way you've done it is the way that I do it and makes both sense and good sounds to me.

The computer program costs a couple of hundred dollars and you need an outboard A/D convertor (sound card, etc) to get the info into the computer. It's a new thing.

Wally sold a device for this that was meters etc. But you can't get Wally to deliver anything unless you work for Stereophile magazine.

I don't have VPIs protractor. I have three that I printed out plus Ken's protractor that I mentioned earlier and I feel with these I'm getting it set just so.

Oh, what cart do I use. I have a couple that I use and interchange between them. I have a 1980's Audio Technica AT155LC MM cart which is fantastic and a Denon 103D MC cartridge that I love as well.

I've ordered an Ortofon 2M Black MM cart which should be here next week or so.

The AT cart's VTF is 1.0 to 1.25 grams and the Denon's is 1.5 to 1.7 grams.

The Adjust Pro + works really well for azimuth if you have a arm with a headshell that can rotate.

On a unipivot arm like my VPI 10.5i, it is a bit difficult as you have to use the counterweight and is very touchy. And you can not place the level on the headshell and take measurements as the arm rests on the arm rest and won't give correct reading that can be reproduced.

I've also noticed that the jmw9 mem is much less resistant to hum than my old rega, and really needs to have a good ground. I am using a pair of harmonic tech silver crystal phono cables as well as having made a ground strap for the bottom of my hw19 plith. the difference when disconnecting either the ground wire for the cables or the plinth is very noticable.

This is how I adjust for azimuth with my VPI 10.5i. I use the rod method, however, it is difficult to see accurately if the rod is truly horizontal....so..... I use a Cardas wood block (looks kind of like a domino). I took 2 of the blocks, and added a metal washer on top of each one. I put one under each end of the rod that is resting on the tonearm headshell...with the cartridge cued down on a record. If you position the 2 blocks under those ends, and if you made the blocks/washer, be just high enough to barely touch the rod ends, or slightly lower, it is very easy to square up the arm.