Isolation for a table for floors with movement


Hi there, there sure are allot of stands and isolation types available but what would you recomend?

My issue is I have suspended wood floors and I know there is movement so I want to address this.

Unfortunately a wall mount is out, just don't have the adequate area to do this.

My table is the TW Raven One, I have some thoughts but wanted to read what others think.
128x128dev
Racks and stands need same thing.Heavy metal and feet.Specifically iron.Call Bob Warzalla at Sound Anchors and a set of Gingko or other good isolating feet are best option after wall mount.I sold high end gear from 1996 -2001 and though my boss sold what I recommended (Salamander Synergy) it was for looks and flexibility of adjustable shelves.But if a friend bought some B&W's or other good speakers and had wood floors I got them Sound Anchors ever for floor standing speakers (you'd be amazed at what the heavy bases did to help floor standers with and in or a few inches of height as long as they didn't make tweeters to high even on heavy trussed solid oak floors).I know Bob made a better sounding stand for monitors like the B&W 805 that he thought should be mass loaded as much as possible near that speaker as opposed to the prettier more expensive B&W stands.Next to the speaker stands a heavy rack was best way to go for all components and if a good TT like your concerned good feet (or if have money aan active Vibraplane originally used to keep electron microscopes still-but it costs).If you find his stuff to pricey (it's worth it) you can try putting a slab or marble underneath another stand which will help and you won't have to worry about isolation points (they should be used wherever possible.I told folks get floor protective cups but isolate points of contact.On the heavy SA stands I use cones between cross braces and shelves) but with a marble slab you didn't need the cups.There are prettier and more expensive brands but you want weight/mass the more the better.Using a heavy stand getting right placement,perhaps clearing out area between speakers,and doing room treatments like putting a rug behind speaker can be way more cost effective than cables or even new components.The VPI stand or Billy Bags are good table stands but Bob's "heavy metal" is best buy along with a Gingko's.
Chazz
Hi Chazzbo, thx for the info.

I have been looking into Vibraplane, Halcyonics and Minus K product.

One of my thoughts is to use a ridget stand, place 1-2 inch pce of slate, then place one of those above isolation pces on top of it and then a SRA stand on top and finally the TT sitting of it. I just don't want to be fussing around with anything once it's all set up, some isolation pces needing to filled periodically.

A member "Cello" has as similar set-up and below is what he had to say;

"In my set up I am using a Minus K with an SRA Ohio Class stand sitting on the Minus K with the TT sitting on top of the SRA. Both pieces separately are well worth the effort and the cost."

"The combination of the two is more than twice as good as either piece separately."

"In my set up, the Minus K does more alone than the SRA does alone."

"The Minus K eliminates anything coming up from the floor while the SRA helps to drain resonances coming out of the TT (which are significant)."
Another approach that I have read about but not tried is to isolate the speakers from the floor so the vibration never gets to it. Unfortunately the article that described how it was done was rendered illegible by recent water damage in my basement and I have not yet replaced it. It looked practical but not simple and I would resort to it only if simpler methods proved inadequate.
I would suggest looking into the Townsend Seismic sink. The older ones used an air bladder, and the new ones use springs. Both are the most effective platforms I have tried.