Can a broken leg from a tube be soldered and used?

Dear Ihcho, It was several years ago that I bought the 6C33Cs from Victor. I bought two sets of six matched pairs each. At that time, I think Victor had the inside rail to obtain tubes that had been built in the Ulyanov factory in the early 90s. Those are said to be the best run of 6C33Cs. I either paid $80 per matched pair (i.e., $40 per tube) or $100 per matched pair. I really think it was the former amount. But bear in mind that this transaction might have taken place as long as 10 years ago. Anyway, since you have a BAT amp, they should give you some sort of deal, but it would have to be based on current values. You have a high-end amplifier; why compromise on the output tubes? They will last a long time.

Ihcho, A belated question. How long are the stubs on the damaged tube. If they are long enuf to make good contact in the sockets that may be good enuf. The actual contact area is usually closer to the glass envelope than at the base of the pins. FWIW.

Newbee makes a good point. But you do have to feel confident you have a firm contact that won't short out during use. Also, as I recall the ceramic sockets for the 6C33C are fairly thick before you reach the metal contact points, which places a constraint on how short the pins can be and still achieve reliable contact.

There is no leg left on the damaged tube to make any contact to the socket.
Someone told me that the broken legs may not need any connnection to the circuit. So I just go ahead and plug the power.
Only one tube biased (a green line comes for each tube once biased). One tube did not glow at all. The other two tubes glowed, but did not bias.
Looks like three tubes are bad. The seller claimed that the amp worked just fine before shipping. What a life on used power amp!

In another thread (under misc forum) I mentioned that one int tube amp, which worked find before I sold it, was returned back to me with blown resistor. The seller demands a full refund minus shipping, claiming that I sold him a defective amp.

I feel like I am cursed by a tube daemon.

Dangerous to just take a chance that the missing leg is irrelevant. In fact, as far as I know, there is NO irrelevant pin on a 6C33C. Anyone who told you that is "blowing smoke". Here is the pin diagram URL. I believe pin 4 is the single large diameter one, so you can use that for reference:

http://www.audiomatica.com/tubes/6c33c.htm