Capacitors in Cary PH302 phono amp


I've just bought a S/H Cary PH302 mk-2 phono amp.
I noticed that the 2 caps near front tubes, C15 & C16, appear to be different to the caps shown in the pictures on the Cary website.
Upon closer inspection it appears that these may have been changed by a previous owner. See pic below:
Cary PH302 Capacitors

The substituted caps(?) are Multicap PPMFX types, 1.0uF/200V.
I found a capacitor test that rates these caps very poorly.
My question is what were the original capacitor types and value.
Any suggestions for substitution, other than original?
tobes
Reb, Dover, thanks for the concern. I had read about the Mundorf caps not liking heat, so I checked things out before mounting.

I've given the caps a little tweak - the distance to the 6SL7 tubes is 4mm. As you noted the caps are opposite the brown tube bases, not the glass envelope, and they approach the round base on a tangent. I think that gives plenty of breathing room.

If we were talking about a power tube in a hot amplifier chassis it might be different, but the envelopes on these tubes only run warm to touch.
You can read the specs for the 6SL7 here.
As you can see the plate dissipation for the tube is 1W max and the heater is using <2W - so <3W total per tube (most of which will dissipate from the glass envelope - which has substantially more area than say a similarly rated 12AX7, hence the lower glass temp I guess).
The PH302 has a rather big case with plenty of breathing room and the case itself gets barely warm...and that's only above the 5AR4 rectifier tube.

I don't believe this environment should pose any issue for any reasonably designed electronic component.

FWIW, the PH302's PCB mounts onto shallow standoffs to the bottom of the chassis - definitly no room to mount a cap like this on the bottom of the PCB.

Once again thanks for the input.
Tobes,

I would buy a roll of automotive gasket material (the grey multi-ply sheet) Cut a square and stand it up between the capacitor and tube. In a tube cd player mod that I installed Mundorf caps close to the tubes. The gasket material blocked the heat. Without the gasket material, just too hot for the long term.
Hi Tobes - we must sound like a bunch of old women with our comments. Next step if you want to go further would be to replace any Solen's in the signal path. Even the MIT will easily surpass these in speed, timing, dynamics and your pre will just get better and better.

+1 to the above post.
Also,

To the left of the Mundorf appears to be a Cary "Audio One" oil capacitor (the long silver cap). That has to go, along with the Solens that are probably bypassing the nearby electrolytic caps.