Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?

An update on the recapping of my TT-101. I just spoke with the tech and he says that he will only be changing out the caps in the power supply section, not all of the small ones on the regulation boards. His take is that the large ones should be changed from time to time but the tiny ones will not cause any problems.
Anybody have a point of view on that?

Aigenga, I can tell you this: the main thing that causes speed stability problems is not bad caps but dirty speed selection switches and dirty speed controls. So if you have a variable speed feature this is the first place to look.

Radio Shack makes an excellent contact cleaner that is about as strong as you would want to put on any audio components. A quick shot of that stuff, and work the control back and forth, and its likely that speed stability is restored.

BTW, some machines that lack an external control may well still have an internal control. Figuring out which one it is and cleaning it is a slightly more complex task. At any rate I would not worry about on-board caps so much as I would filter caps in the power supply!

Occasionally certain parts get identified as trouble makers. I've seen a lot of tantalum electrolytics short out over the years. These days if I see them I don't trust them no matter where they are.

"Small ones" does not tell me much. Some electrolytic caps in solid state devices can have values as low as one microfarad and below. Such caps are tiny, but they are nevertheless electrolytic. If they are electrolytic it would seem to me they are subject to aging, leakage, etc. I would change them all, and I did so in my own SP10 MK2. If the term "small ones" refers to film and foil or metallized film capacitors, that is a different story. Film caps are also "small", but they have a very long life and don't really need to be changed unless grossly bad. That's what I think.

A belated response to Henry's question about the complexity of the SP10 Mk3 vs the TT101: There are no on-board electronics in the Mk3 save for the on/off and speed selector switches and wiring thereto and the brake solenoid. All the electronics are housed in the outboard power supply, which is much larger and heavier than that of an SP10 Mk2, for that reason. This arrangement allowed Technics to build the chassis proper such that resonances are minimized. (No hollow cavity or thin-walled structures, etc) And I reckon it also allowed more room on board for the humongous motor. As to what's inside the Mk3 power supply, I deemed it to be so "special" that I did not want to mess around inside it. (As you may know, my Mk3 was acquired in NOS condition.) I simply handed it to Bill Thalmann and let him do the work. Ergo, I don't know what it looks like inside. But the schematic is available on VE.

Thanks for that information Hiho.
I didn't appreciate that the TT-81 didn't have a coreless motor?
Can anyone explain the advantages of one over the other?
Are there still 24 poles so that there are 24 impulses every revolution?