Headshell Washers : Nylon or Stainless Steel?


Few things are unimportant which are so close to the most critical interface in hifi (stylus >> groove)....

I've been using Nylon washers for nearly 18 months now, mainly for their protectiveness of the headshell finish. The nylon also performs 2 other potentially useful jobs : insulation (breaks possible GND loops - although I've never suffered one before) and constrained layer damping.

There's no denying that setting up a cart accurately is much easier with stainless steel (they don't change shape under compression and end up skewing the cartridge) although, as you know, if stainless steel is used we must be certain that it's 100% non-magnetic.
Another minor source of worry with washer choice are tales of cartridge bolts which have secretly loosened due to inadequate torque. (Although I'm certain the owners would notice this straight away...)

My main question is do the nylon washers have any ill-effects or disadvantages that you can think of?
(e.g could they compromise the rigidity of the "closed loop" - bearing in mind we are using them on top of the headshell not underneath?)
So what is the source of any sonic differences - the damping ability, or something else?

Personally I can't see them having any effect on the closed loop as the cart body is in intimate contact with the headshell and there is plenty of friction there(?)
Please discuss....
moonglum
Excellent feedback. Stanwal, your view echoes my own gut feelings on the matter. For years I've been trying to wean myself off the habit of making everything "Linn-tight" i.e. tighten it until it breaks then slacken off :D….So now I just "nip" them but it goes against my basic instinct.
Never had any bolts loosen on carts though….touch wood.

Dan - Initially I felt a bit foolish asking such a trivial question but the fact that someone out there has dignified my concerns by making a specialised tool is gratifying :)
It's always a worry when applying high tensile steel bolts to a tapped alum cart body as there's a real danger of thread stripping. Ortofon solves this by fitting tapped steel "cheeks" but then the Cadenza was the most recent case of bolt loosening I heard about. (…Not that I'm apportioning any blame to Ortofon or suggesting foul play :)
Changing the mechanicals is the type of update I'll try at the next cartridge change so it's good to get useful market feedback on the alternatives first. I never considered brass washers but an interesting choice nevertheless…..

Blk25 - Have no fears my friend….please accept my assurance if a particular method doesn't sound acceptable it won't stay on the turntable long.
You are right of course. I've long been resigned to the fact that there is a gulf between intellectual understanding and synergy (synergies internal to the equipment and in it's relationship to the listener's personal perception). In practice this means there is no easy route to audio nirvana and everything must be tested rigorously in the fire of our own acceptance. Narrowing down possibiIities helps but can only go so far. I wish I had a £1 note for every review which determined that a product or idea was good only to find that it wasn't good for the new owner. :)

Doug – many thanks for trying to quantify the effects. I only manage to listen for about 8-10 hrs per week so it usually takes me weeks to “re-optimise” the cart settings if I upset anything....hence I try not to disturb them once tuned. I will do the experiments after my current diamond burns out. The table consists of Raven One/Graham Phantom II/Lyra Delos at the moment.
John_G....I'd be lying if I didn't admit your response has got me worried. This is a blatant encouragement to the OCD side of my personality... :o)
All the best....
Moonglum,

Not to further exacerbate your OCD or anything, but with gear at that level optimizing your settings means tweaking for every session, perhaps for every LP.

;-)