VPI Classic Azimuth Seems to Change -- Normal??


I own the VPI Classic with a Classic 3 wand upgrade. The Classic 3 wand is stainless steel and incorporates Valhalla silver wiring. My carty is the VPI Zephyr. My set-up is pretty straightforward.

Here's what I noticed. I was checking aziumth and some other settings. I'm pretty sure that the azimuth changed when I moved the arm to the inner tracks. It was pretty stable in the middle and outer tracks. It seems that the Valhalla wire in some way is twisting the arm causing the change. To try and minimize the effect, I tried not to twist the wire, but to little effect.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions?
bifwynne
Hi Bifwynne, I keep my wires in the neutral position so there is no counter twist. Also, I substituted the VPI drop-style weight for XTCW counterweight through Ebay (seller JCLOVESmusic - United Kingdom). It has a much lower center of gravity than the VPI, thereby, creating greater azimuth stability. The improvement in sound reproduction was pronounced.
Interesting, as was stated above did you twist the wire slightly to set the anti skating? Also, what did you use to measure the azimuth? I use an angle protractor to measure the distance from the bottom of the record to the azimuth rod (on both sides of the azimuth rod.

The VPI tonearm wires can be a bit stiff and has a memory i.e. the wire always attempts to return to its previous state.

To eliminate wire memory, used a hair dryer set to low and heat up the wire to relax the insulation and remove the previous wire memory. With the wire heated, I was able to create a more neutral loop and the wire remained more supple.
Bifwynne,

Slight changes in the azimuth are normal across the record as any warps, however slight, will alter the angle at which the cartridge interfaces with the record's surface. In my opinion, I'm not sure how realistic it is to expect to be able to maintain a perfect setting across the entire record surface. I set mine in the middle of the record and don't obsess about the rest of the surface. I'm also still not sure how you go about measuring the azimuth (did you use one, or different records, did you measure in the same spot, etc.?)

Perhaps more importantly, why on earth would you be messing with the Valhalla wiring when you have the anti-skate device on the Classic? The wire twist method is only for those VPI tables that don't have the anti-skate device, and for those owners who are just too OCD not to have any anti-skating applied. I actually removed the anti-skate thingy from my Classic as I found that it sounded best without any anti-skate (which Harry also suggests). Now you have hair dryers going to undo what was completely unnecessary in the first place. Oy vey, as Mike would say...
Actureus, I never used the VPI AS set-up. Instead, I may have lightly twisted the wire. As stated above, it could be "wire/insulation" memory. Kinda makes sense. At this point, I think there's no twist in the wire.

In response to the Q about how I check azimuth -- I have a tiny bubble level which I place length-wise accross the top of the head shell. In other words, the bubble level is length-wise perpendicular to the front of the head shell, directly over the midpoint of the cartridge. I also check the azimuth in 3 spots: inner, middle and outer tracks.

As I said, the middle and inner tracks are perfect; it's the inner track that torques to one side. I don't remember which way -- clockwise or counter-clockwise.

I sent a message to Mike at VPI. He said that he would check into the anomolie when he gets back from RMAF. He quipped that I was being just a bit OCD, but then added, he would be too. LOL

I'll report back when I hear from Mike.

P.S. -- next TT will be fixed gimbal.