VPI Classic Azimuth Seems to Change -- Normal??

Thanks guys. This may be heretical -- but I am not using the VPI AS set up. I was using the VPI suggested twisted wire - rough justice approach. That is until I relaxed the wire because of the torque issue.

Actusreus, I use a tiny bubble level that is made for cartridge set ups. It's probably 45 years old. Short of using an oscilliscope, it's probably the most accurate way to check azimuth.

Swanny, I'm not sure I understand your suggestion. If I am not using the AS device, is the suggestion relevent?

I sent Mike an e mail. I'm not sure he'll be around. The pre-recorded phone message said something to the effect that Mike and others may be at RMAF.

Thanks again.

Hi Bifwynne, I keep my wires in the neutral position so there is no counter twist. Also, I substituted the VPI drop-style weight for XTCW counterweight through Ebay (seller JCLOVESmusic - United Kingdom). It has a much lower center of gravity than the VPI, thereby, creating greater azimuth stability. The improvement in sound reproduction was pronounced.

Interesting, as was stated above did you twist the wire slightly to set the anti skating? Also, what did you use to measure the azimuth? I use an angle protractor to measure the distance from the bottom of the record to the azimuth rod (on both sides of the azimuth rod.

The VPI tonearm wires can be a bit stiff and has a memory i.e. the wire always attempts to return to its previous state.

To eliminate wire memory, used a hair dryer set to low and heat up the wire to relax the insulation and remove the previous wire memory. With the wire heated, I was able to create a more neutral loop and the wire remained more supple.

Bifwynne,

Slight changes in the azimuth are normal across the record as any warps, however slight, will alter the angle at which the cartridge interfaces with the record's surface. In my opinion, I'm not sure how realistic it is to expect to be able to maintain a perfect setting across the entire record surface. I set mine in the middle of the record and don't obsess about the rest of the surface. I'm also still not sure how you go about measuring the azimuth (did you use one, or different records, did you measure in the same spot, etc.?)

Perhaps more importantly, why on earth would you be messing with the Valhalla wiring when you have the anti-skate device on the Classic? The wire twist method is only for those VPI tables that don't have the anti-skate device, and for those owners who are just too OCD not to have any anti-skating applied. I actually removed the anti-skate thingy from my Classic as I found that it sounded best without any anti-skate (which Harry also suggests). Now you have hair dryers going to undo what was completely unnecessary in the first place. Oy vey, as Mike would say...