Upgrade Superscoutmaster or Buy Classic 3?


I have a superscoutmaster with the 9 inch signature arm and the older black platter,not the superplatter.

I plan on upgrading it with the classic platter,rim drive and probably the classic 3 tonearm.I could do this in steps,rim drive and platter,then tonearm,or visa,versa.

I could sell the ssc and get the classic 3 which already has the tonearm and the platter.Any thought on which way to go would be appreciated.Since , I already have the ssc, would you upgrade it and skip the classic 3?

My cartridge is a Dynavector XX2mk11 and the phono stage is a Zesto Andros.I had read the review in the magazine enjoy the music of adding the rim drive and the classic platter which took the ssc to a much higher level of fidelity.
Thanks
moonguy
If you're just thinking of selling your table and getting a Classic 3, then that's the route to take. But if you're really interested in performance, then upgrade the SSM.
Thanks for the comments so far.In order,what upgrade would you purchase first,platter,rim drive or tone arm in a 3 part upgrade process?

I would first do the Rimdrive, then the Classic Platter, then the 10.5i tonearm.
My suggestion would be to first do the platter. After the platter is complete, then the rim drive since you won't have to fiddle around with the rim drive set-up more than once (it's not really much of a pain, but still...). Then do the new arm.

IMO, the platter will make the most difference.

There are some mounting options to consider with the rim drive. Review all the information you can get your hands on. You may want to consider mounting the rim drive on a "slider" so that it's easier to engage / disengage with the correct pressure against the platter. (Hint: look at the construction of drawers and sliding kitchen shelves.)

If the new platter comes with an entire bearing ass'y, let me know. I might be able to help you get rid of that old platter / bearing assembly.
I too have a rim drive Superscout/Classic table and will tell you that the upgrade from a 9 inch arm to a 10.5 is hardly worth the trouble. Dump those feet and get Bearpaws for a truly upgraded sound. You must have the motor assembly able to move on soft feet, and the turntable itself to be rock solid to the supporting table so that any inconsistency in the drive wheel or rubber belt will not transfer itself onto the table and make the arm wobble.