Rega RP10 VTA shims

Dear Theo: The Kleos was designed to have a vertical height (headshell underside to stylus tip) of 17.377~17.48mm with VTF applied. Let's say 17.4mm. I believe that the Rega cartridges are 14mm high, and Rega's tonearms and shims are designed accordingly.

IOW, you probably need to bring the base of the Rega tonearm up by 3.4mm to make the Kleos level.

If Rega cannot provide a custom shim for you, I would bring one of your shims to a machine shop. Ask them to caliper the inner and outer diameter, then have them make up a custom shim of 3.4mm thickness (if the machinist can make 3.43mm thickness, even better).

If you have a range of tonearm shims made to varying thicknesses, say 0.3mm apart (or even 0.1mm if the pricing allows you to make 10 or a dozen), you have a fairly predictable method of experimenting with SRA. Shims of more than 3.4mm thickness will result in tail-up SRA with the Kleos, and shims with less than 3.4mm thickness should result in tail-down SRA.

Or as Elizabeth said, you could install the two Rega-supplied 2mm shims, then add an LP mat of 0.6mm thickness to take up the difference.

hth, jonathan carr

PS. When changing the tonearm bearing height, recheck the VTF and overhang, and correct them if they have shifted.

Jonathan, Thank you so much for your response. I have found some shims that are available in .5MM increments.
I am planning to order those and set it to 3.5MM I realize that is just .1MM to high. But if I fand that the performace is "dialing-in" to an optimum sound, then I can
approach a machine shop and have a custom 3.4MM machined so I have a solid shim rather than a stack. I had thought about Elizibeths suggestion, but felt (no pun) that a thicker mat might effect the sound or benefits of the ceramic platter.
But this explains why I get better performance at 4MM than I do at 2MM, although at 4MM the bass was to muddled although deep. I am excited to try the 3.5MM and then narrow it to the 3.4 as budget permits.

Mr.Carr, your help and advice is greatly appreciated and invaluable to me and I am sure all Rega owners owning or seeking Lyra. Thank you very very much.
Theo

PS. I do have a question, what is your advice on de-magging
a Lyra, I see small metal filings, I have no idea how they get there playing vinyl, but I see them in my magnifing glass?
cartridges.

Theo -- can you tell us about those 0.5mm shims?

Drubin, here is the link;

http://www.needledoctor.com/Acoustic-Signature-Shim-Set-for-Rega-Tonearm

Also
http://shop.generubinaudio.com/Acoustic-Signature-Spacers-for-Rega-Tone-Arms-859758961793.htm

I ordered today but upon further investigation, Gene Rubin appears to provide 4 shims whereas NeedleDoctor provides only 3 for only 4.00 more.
I am going to re-order once I get a confirmation from Needle Doctor. Unfortuneatley they are closed till Monday.

Also these are for a RP 6 and the RP8/RP10 use a larger screw, so I will need to drill the hole a little larger
but that shouldn't be much of an issue.

Dear Theo: Your idea to get as close as possible with the ready-made 0.5mm incremented shims to validate the SRA trend, then follow up with a custom job, sounds like an excellent plan to me. Good thinking!

I still recommend that when you have the custom shims made, you make a number of them in varying thickness, since not all LPs are of the same thickness.

>what is your advice on de-magging Lyra cartridges? I see small metal filings, I have no idea how they get there playing vinyl, but I see them in my magnifing glass?

"Demagging" or fluxbusting a ferrous-core MC cartridge is a low-level process intended to "reset" the magnetic alignment of the ferrous core (over which the signal coils are wound) to the magnetic field. Doing so will not exert any significant effect on the magnets or magnet yokes (unless the magnet is vintage Alnico or a similarly weak material), and will therefore not be effective in removing ferrous particles that have collected on the magnets or magnet yokes.

The ferrous metal particles that you saw with your magnifier exist in the environment (including the LPs and their sleeves), and are attracted to the very powerful magnetic field that energizes the signal coils. Any cartridge with powerful magnets (not only Lyras) will suffer from this to a greater or lesser extent.

The existence of these tiny ferrous particles is why we cover our private parts (aka gap and coils) with a pressed-paper "washi" dustcover. Other companies use a thin rubber skin (white, gray, black are typical colors), and so have we on occasion. But in our experience, the washi does a better job in allowing pressure waves inside the gap to dissipate, and sounds better.

That said, the cantilever moves in a big way when VTF is applied and removed, requiring that the hole in the front magnet (front yoke for other cartridge manufacturers) is clearly larger than the cantilever diameter. This leaves a ring-shaped space between the two. Over time, the aforementioned ferrous particles will find their way into this space and collect there, also within the gap.

So the washi (or rubber) dust cover slows down the ingress of the tiny ferrous particles, but does not prevent it completely.

When the amount of collected particles becomes excessive, it can hamper the movement of the cantilever, thereby impairing performance. We see these all the time on cartridges that are returned to us for servicing. Since the particles' ferrous composition causes them to adhere securely to the magnet (or yoke), they won't always come off easily. The best way to get rid of them is to clean them off carefully and thoroughly by hand.

We clean off this ferrous buildup, along with other grime that may have collected where it shouldn't be, as an integral part of our inspection and servicing program for any of our cartridges that is returned to us (caveat - the cartridge must not have been retipped or rebuilt by any other company). We don't charge for doing this.

OTOH, given the painstaking nature of the particle removal process, I can easily understand why companies such as Soundsmith or Andy Kim would perhaps want to ask payment for this.

In many cases, a thorough cleaning of the stylus, and / or the magnetic gap surrounding the cantilever, is all that a cartridge needs to sound pristine again. Of the cartridges are returned to us nominally because the owner feels that the stylus or suspension is worn or damaged, frequently the problem is stylus buildup that prevents the stylus from touching the LP groove properly, or accumulated ferrous particles that clog up the cantilever's freedom of movement.

BTW, if you have the opportunity, please read the following thread, from page 3 to the end.

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?14082-Sme-30-2/page3

It talks about the factors that affect cartridge loading, but unlike similar threads here on Audiogon, or the Kleos' user manual, there are frequency charts and test schematics which should give you a better visualization of what happens.

kind regards, jonathan carr