Any Sota Sapphire experts out there?

I owned 3 different SOTA tables and they do not need any lubrication. the weak link is the springs the table hangs on them and can be stretched if you are using the clamp screw the feet as close to the base as possible and enjoy a fine turntable.

I had a Sota and unfortunately I too had a SME V on it. The arm is just too heavy for that turntable...the springs/lead shot, just won't accommodate it. You might get in touch with SOTA and see if they have upgraded their springs since I had mine, but you're fighting a loosing battle with that combination.

That's surprising, Stringreen. If memory serves, the SOTA Star Sapphire/SME combo was a "classic" one back in the days of both products. But I am sure not arguing with your real world experience to the contrary.

I have the SME 309 tonearm on my Sota Sapphire. Specs say it weighs 717g. It works just fine. I even have some lead for additional weight on the sub-chassis for perfect balance. The specs for the SME V tonearm says it weighs 720g. 3 grams is not an issue. Consider that the lead is needed to counterbalance the sub-chassis with the weight of the tonearm in the back corner. Also consider that the springs must be adjusted for the final, overall weight on the sub chassis. Don't try that unless you have patience and really know what you are doing.

Now, about lubrication. I bought my Sota new many years ago and I have done all of my own maintenance work on my tt. It really needs very little maintenance. I lubricate the platter bearing every 3-4 years. I used to use a lithium based grease but switched to a synthetic lube last time. The synthetic is stickier and made the bearing stiffer; but with the mass of the platter added to the bearing it made little difference.

It is not difficult to lube the main bearing; but it takes some mechanical ability. The platter has a shaft with a ball bearing on the end. That ball sits on the sapphire bearing. The shaft fits snugly in a bushing to support the platter horizontally. To disassemble the table follow these steps:
1. Reach under the turntable with the small allen wrench and crank up the two small allen screws that are used for shipping the turntable. These two screws take the load off of the sapphire bearing.
2. Remove the motor cover and belt.
3. At this point, I put my Sota clamp on the platter to help separate it from the sub chassis. I also put the turntable on its side to get to the bolts easier. (Remove your tonearm if you like before tipping the tt on its side.) (my lead shot is in a plastic bag.) I leave the tonearm on and have my wife or sons help hold the table secure.
4. Remove the 3 larger allen head screws and 1/2" bolt from the bottom. Remove the metal plate. Be sure to support the platter as you remove the bolt and screws because these bolts are holding it together.
5. Now remove the platter. Careful! it is heavy. The bearing assembly is what is bolted to the sub chassis. It comes out with the platter.
6. Set the platter down upside down. Now see the three allen head screws in the bearing assembly? Remove those. That allows you to slide out the keeper plate. That plate holds the bearing assembly together.
7. Remove the bearing assembly from the platter shaft.
8. Clean the shaft, ball and the bushing. Relube the ball and shaft. Re-assemble in reverse order.

A new belt is needed too every so often depending on how much you play records.

One last thing. Reference my system page. I added bushings to the sub chassis to constrain it in the horizontal direction. This stabilizes the platter speed as the drag changes at the needle. That drag changes the belt tension which can pull or push the sub chassis in the horizontal direction. That results in a micro speed change. The result was clearer highs.